What This Error Means
F14 on a Miele dishwasher means water circulation fault.
The control board starts the wash, expects pressure/flow from the circulation (wash) pump, doesn’t see it, and shuts down with F14.
- Water may fill and drain, but it’s not being pumped through the spray arms properly.
- Common causes: jammed wash-pump impeller, failed circulation pump, heavy sludge in the sump, or a pressure/flow sensor issue.
- End result: poor or no spray, short noisy attempt at washing, then F14.
Official Fix
This is what the manual and Miele phone support want you to do before they send a tech.
- 1. Kill power first.
- Unplug the dishwasher or flip the breaker off.
- Turn off the water supply valve if you’ll be pulling the machine out.
- 2. Try a soft reset.
- Turn power back on.
- Close the door.
- Press and hold the Start/Stop button for about 3–5 seconds until the indicator changes/blinks.
- Start a short program and see if F14 comes back.
- 3. Clean the filter system and sump.
- Open the door, pull out the lower rack.
- Twist and lift out the filter assembly at the bottom (coarse + fine filters).
- Wash filters under hot water, scrub off grease and food.
- Look down into the sump (hole under the filter). Scoop out any glass, bones, seeds, and sludge.
- Reinstall the filter correctly, locked in place.
- 4. Clean the spray arms.
- Pop off the lower and upper spray arms (they either twist off or pull down/out).
- Rinse under hot water, poke out blocked jets with a wooden toothpick.
- Make sure no chunks are left inside that could blow into the pump.
- Reinstall spray arms so they spin freely.
- 5. Check water supply basics.
- Make sure the inlet hose isn’t kinked or crushed behind the machine.
- Confirm the shutoff valve under the sink is fully open.
- Run a quick program and check: water should reach just below the bottom of the door opening after filling.
- 6. Run again and confirm.
- After cleaning and checking, run a short cycle.
- If it still throws F14, the official line is: “Technical fault – contact Miele Service.”
- At that point, they’re expecting a failed circulation pump or control issue.
The Technician’s Trick
This is the stuff real techs do in a kitchen when F14 keeps coming back after the basics.
- 1. Manually clear and free the circulation pump from inside.
- Kill power again: unplug or breaker off. Safety first.
- Open door, pull out lower rack and filters, bail out standing water with a cup and towel.
- In the sump, look for a small plastic cover over the impeller area (often held by clips or a Torx screw).
- Pop that cover off and shine a flashlight in.
- Reach in carefully and try to spin the impeller with your fingers or a plastic tool.
- If it’s jammed with glass, stones, or hard food, pull the junk out until the impeller spins freely.
- Pour a kettle of very hot (not boiling) water with a bit of dishwasher detergent into the sump and let it sit 10–15 minutes to melt grease cakes.
- Reassemble the cover and filters.
- 2. Kickstart a sticking pump / clear an air pocket.
- Pull the dishwasher out from the cabinet enough to access the sides (remove mounting screws at the top/side of the frame first).
- With it still unplugged, gently tilt the machine back about 30–45° for a few seconds, then set it back down. This can move air and crud away from the pump inlet.
- From the side or bottom access (panel off if needed), find the circulation pump (big motor on the side of the sump, not the tiny drain pump).
- Tap the pump housing firmly with the handle of a screwdriver or a rubber mallet. You’re trying to free stiff bearings or a stuck rotor, not break it.
- Stand the unit upright, slide it back in, reconnect water and power.
- Run a short program and listen: if you now hear a strong, even spray noise inside and no F14, the pump was just stuck.
- 3. Know when the pump is done.
- If the machine fills, you hear a quiet hum but almost no water noise, and it eventually throws F14, the circulation pump is usually weak or seized.
- If it’s totally silent when it should be washing (but still drains), the circulation pump is likely dead or not getting power.
- In real-world service calls, a persistent F14 after all cleaning almost always ends in a circulation pump replacement.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Machine under ~10–12 years old, cabinet and tub in good shape, F14 started recently, and a pump swap quote is under about $300–$350 parts + labor.
- ⚠️ Debatable: 10–15 years old, integrated panel you’d rather keep, or the quote involves both circulation pump and control board testing, landing in the $350–$500 range.
- ❌ Replace: 15+ years old, rust or leaks elsewhere, multiple error codes, or any repair quote pushing past ~$500–$600 where a new midrange dishwasher makes more sense.
Parts You Might Need
- Circulation (wash) pump assembly – main suspect for repeated F14.
Find Circulation pump on Amazon - Sump / non-return valve kit – if debris keeps jamming the pump or backflow is an issue.
Find Sump / non-return valve kit on Amazon - Pressure switch / flow sensor – for rare cases where the pump runs but the control never sees proper flow.
Find Pressure switch / flow sensor on Amazon - Inlet water filter / mesh screen – if water supply has been dirty and you keep getting gunk downstream.
Find Inlet water filter / mesh screen on Amazon - Circulation pump seal / O-ring kit – if you replace the pump or disturb the sump and want to avoid leaks.
Find Circulation pump seal / O-ring kit on Amazon
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