GE Profile Dishwasher F3 Fix (Error Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

On most GE Profile dishwashers, F3 means Water Temperature Sensor Fault (thermistor/NTC open, shorted, or reading way out of range).

The control board is getting a nonsense temperature signal, decides heating isn’t safe or reliable, and bails out of the cycle with F3 on the display.

On the vast majority of GE Profile units that throw F3, the problem is in the temperature sensor circuit: the sensor itself, its wiring, or the main control board that reads it.

Official Fix

  • Kill the power first. Flip the dishwasher breaker off. Don’t trust just the front buttons; you’re working around 120 V wiring here.
  • Try one hard reset. Leave power off for 2–3 minutes, then turn it back on and start a quick cycle. If F3 pops right back or within a few minutes, it’s a real fault, not a random glitch.
  • Pop the toe-kick panel. Remove the screws at the very bottom front, pull off the lower panel, and grab the folded tech sheet if you see one stuffed behind the insulation. That sheet has the exact resistance spec for your sensor.
  • Find the temperature sensor. Look in the sump area at the bottom of the tub for a small plastic probe with two wires going to it. On some models it twists out from inside the tub; on others you reach it from underneath near the circulation pump.
  • Inspect the wiring and connector.
    • Check for green or white corrosion on the pins
    • Look for browned, burnt, or melted plastic around the plug
    • Look for nicked, chewed, or broken wires along the harness

    If the connector is cooked or the insulation is melted, plan on a new sensor and a harness repair, not just a reset.

  • Ohm-test the sensor.
    • Keep power OFF the whole time you’re meter-testing.
    • Unplug the temperature sensor connector so you’re reading only the sensor, not the board.
    • Set your multimeter to resistance (Ω) and measure across the two sensor pins.
    • Compare to the spec on your tech sheet (commonly somewhere in the 30–60 kΩ range at room temp, dropping as water heats).
    • If it reads open (OL), near 0 Ω, or nowhere close to the spec, the sensor is bad.
  • Replace the temperature sensor if it fails the test.
    • Twist, unclip, or release the old sensor from the sump or tub wall (depends on model).
    • Move or install the new O-ring if your replacement includes one; lightly wet it so it slides and seals without tearing.
    • Lock the new sensor in place and plug the connector back in firmly until it clicks or feels solid.
  • If the sensor tests good, check the harness.
    • With power still OFF, ohm each wire from the sensor plug back to its matching pins on the control board connector.
    • Any wire that reads open (infinite resistance), bounces around, or changes when you wiggle it is suspect.
    • Repair the bad section or replace the lower harness if it’s crusty or hacked up.
  • Last in line: the control board. If:
    • The sensor ohms good and matches the spec
    • The harness has solid continuity and looks clean
    • You still get F3 whenever the machine tries to heat

    the main control board is probably misreading the sensor and needs replacement.

  • Reassemble and test hot. Put the toe-kick back on, restore power, and run a hot or normal cycle. If it finishes with no F3 and dishes come out warm and steamy, you’re done.

The Technician’s Trick

F3 on these is often just lousy contacts, not a dead sensor. Here’s the inside move we try before throwing parts at it.

  • Power off at the breaker. No fingers in there with live voltage, period.
  • Work the sensor connector. Unplug and replug the temperature sensor connector 5–10 times. That friction wipes oxidation off the pins better than just “looking” at it.
  • Snug up the terminals. If you can reach the female terminals, very gently pinch them a hair tighter with a pick or small needle-nose so they grip the sensor pins firmly.
  • Clean the contacts. Hit both sides of the connector with a quick shot of contact cleaner or 90%+ isopropyl alcohol, then let it dry fully before powering up.
  • Repeat at the control board end. Follow that same harness up to the board, unplug and replug the matching connector several times, clean if it looks dull or green.
  • Power back on and test a cycle. If F3 disappears and the machine heats normally, the “fix” was dirty or loose connections, not a bad sensor or board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under ~10 years old, otherwise washes fine, and you’re looking at just a sensor or minor harness work (usually well under $150 in parts).
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 10–12 years old, racks are rusty or the pump is getting loud, and F3 points toward a control board plus sensor (parts in the $200–$300 range).
  • ❌ Replace: Machine is 12+ years old, has other issues (leaks, weak wash, trashed racks), or needs both board and pump on top of this—now you’re too close to the price of a solid new mid-range dishwasher.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other appliance error codes around the house? These guides might save you another service call: