GE Profile Dishwasher F12 Error Code Fix

by

What This Error Means

On a GE Profile dishwasher, F12 means a communication fault between the user interface controls in the door and the main control board in the base.

The dishwasher is losing the signal between the brains and the buttons, so it may not start, may freeze mid-cycle, or just flash F12 and refuse to run.

Official Fix

What the manual basically tells you to do:

  • Kill power to the dishwasher at the breaker. Do not trust the door switch.
  • Wait 60 seconds, turn the breaker back on, and try a normal wash cycle. Sometimes a hard power reset clears a one-time F12 glitch.
  • If F12 comes back, kill power again and pull the dishwasher out just enough to access the lower front toe panel and the door screws.
  • Open the door and remove the inner door panel screws so you can tilt the outer door skin and reach the control boards.
  • Find the wire harness running between the user interface board in the console and the main control board down low. Check for:
    • Loose or half-seated plugs on either board.
    • Burn marks, melted plastic, or a burnt smell on the connectors or boards.
    • Crushed, pinched, or chewed wires where the harness passes through the door hinge area.
  • Reseat every connector between those two boards. Firm push until it bottoms out or clicks into place.
  • If you see corrosion or any sign of water in the console area, the official call is moisture damage: replace the affected control board and fix the leak or bad door gasket or vent that let steam in.
  • If the harness and connectors look clean and solid but F12 still returns after a reset, the service manual steps to this:
    • Replace the user interface or control panel board first.
    • If F12 still shows after that, replace the main control board.
  • If opening panels and working around 120 V wiring sounds sketchy, stop here and call a pro. These boards sit right in the power path.

The Technician’s Trick

When F12 comes and goes, it is often steam or oxidation on that tiny connector, not a totally dead board. Here is the field trick that sometimes saves you from buying parts:

  • Kill power at the breaker and open the door fully.
  • Remove the inner door screws and gently tip the console toward you. Do not yank; the wires are short.
  • Find the flat ribbon cable or small plug that runs from the user interface into the board. Unplug it, then plug it back in three or four times to wipe the contacts.
  • If you see light green or white fuzz on the contacts, clean them carefully with proper electronics or contact cleaner and a cotton swab. No scraping with knives or sandpaper.
  • Use a hair dryer on warm (not high heat) and blow air across the console and board area for 5 to 10 minutes to dry any hidden condensation.
  • Reassemble the door, restore power at the breaker, and do a control reset. On most GE Profile dishwashers, holding the Start or Start/Cancel button for about 5 to 10 seconds will clear the panel and reset the electronics.
  • Run a short cycle. If it finishes with no F12, you likely had a moisture or connection issue, not a fully failed control.
  • If F12 comes back quickly, the party is over. You are back to the official path: bad user interface, bad main board, or both.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: GE Profile is under about 8–10 years old, everything else works fine, and you are okay spending 150–300 dollars on boards to keep a decent machine running.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 10–12 years old, has already had pumps, heaters, or valves replaced, and the quote for boards plus labor is creeping toward half the price of a solid mid-range new dishwasher.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub or racks are shot, it leaks, has multiple fault codes, or the repair estimate lands over roughly 60 percent of the cost of a comparable new model.

Parts You Might Need

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

See also

More machines yelling at you with codes? These guides can save you another service call: