GE Profile Dishwasher F14 Fix: Error Code Guide

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What This Error Means

F14 on a GE Profile dishwasher means the machine thinks it has a drain problem. It tried to pump the water out, but the tub still reads full, so it stops the cycle and flashes F14.

Official Fix

Do it the factory way first before you start throwing parts at it:

  • Kill power: unplug the dishwasher or flip the breaker. Do not work around it live.
  • Open the door, pull the bottom rack, and bail out standing water with a cup and towel so you can see the sump area.
  • Pop out the bottom filters and screen. Rinse them in the sink. Clear any glass, bones, seeds, pasta, or labels blocking the holes.
  • Shine a flashlight into the sump where the filters sit. Clear any sludge or debris sitting on or around the small drain port.
  • Go under the sink and find the dishwasher drain hose. Check it:
    • No kinks, crush points, or sharp bends.
    • It runs up in a high loop or through an air gap before dropping to the drain or garbage disposal.
    • If it connects to a garbage disposal, make sure the factory knockout plug inside that inlet was removed when the dishwasher was installed.
  • If you have a chrome air gap on the sink deck, twist the cap off and clean out the gunk inside. That thing clogs all the time.
  • Restore power. Start a short or rinse cycle and stand there for the first 5 to 10 minutes. When it switches to drain:
    • You should hear the drain pump humming and see water shooting into the sink or disposal.
    • If the pump is loud but barely moving water, it is failing or still blocked.
    • If you hear nothing during drain, the pump may be dead or not getting power.
  • If it still throws F14 and does not drain, pull the toe kick panel and look at the drain pump:
    • Check for broken glass, toothpicks, or food junk in the impeller and around the inlet.
    • If the impeller spins freely by hand but the pump hums and does not move water, replace the pump.
    • If the pump never runs in the drain portion of the cycle, you are down to wiring or a bad control board.
  • After clearing the blockage or replacing the pump, kill power for 5 minutes to let the control reset, then run another short cycle to confirm the code is gone.

The Technician’s Trick

Here is the move techs use when the normal clean out does not cut it:

  • Unplug the dishwasher or flip the breaker. Always start dead.
  • Under the sink, pull the dishwasher drain hose off the disposal or drain stub. Have a towel or small pan ready.
  • Stick a wet dry shop vac hose tight onto the dishwasher hose. Tape or wrap a rag to seal it if needed.
  • Run the vac for 20 to 30 seconds. This back sucks clogs out of the hose, check valve, and pump housing that you cannot reach by hand.
  • Reconnect the hose, make sure the high loop or air gap is still correct, and tighten the clamp.
  • Restore power and run a rinse cycle. Watch the drain. If it now blasts water out and runs clean to the end, F14 should clear on its own.
  • If you still get F14 with a strong drain, the control may not be seeing the drain status correctly. At that point most techs ohm check the pump, confirm voltage at the pump during drain, and if that all looks good, swap the main control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Under about 8 to 10 years old, cabinet and racks are in good shape, and the issue is a clog or a drain pump, usually 40 to 120 dollars in parts.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Around 10 to 12 years old and you are looking at both a pump and a control board, or you have had repeated drain or leak codes already.
  • ❌ Replace: Older than 12 years, rusting racks or tub, or any repair quote that pushes past 300 dollars in parts and labor. At that point, money is better in a new mid range unit.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Dealing with more than one misbehaving appliance? These code guides might save you another headache: