What This Error Means
F15 means “leak / flood detected in the base pan.”
The control sees water under the tub, trips the safety float, and shuts the dishwasher down so it doesn’t dump water on your floor.
The control sees water under the tub, trips the safety float, and shuts the dishwasher down so it doesn’t dump water on your floor.
Official Fix
What the manual wants you to do, minus the corporate speech:
- 1. Kill power at the breaker and shut the water supply valve under the sink. Don’t rely on just the front buttons.
- 2. Pop off the lower toe-kick panel (usually a couple of screws) so you can see the base pan.
- 3. If possible, slide the dishwasher out a few inches for better access without stretching hoses and wires.
- 4. Look in the bottom pan under the tub. If you see standing water, that’s exactly what triggered F15.
- 5. Soak up every bit of water in that pan with towels or a sponge. The float / leak sensor has to be bone-dry to clear the error.
- 6. With a flashlight, hunt for where the water came from:
- Check the inlet valve area (left front usually) for drips or green/white mineral trails.
- Follow the drain hose and internal hoses with your hand; feel for wet spots or crusty buildup at clamps.
- Look around the sump / circulation pump for hairline cracks or water trails.
- Inspect the door gasket corners and bottom for splits, flattening, or food buildup that stops it sealing.
- 7. Tighten any loose hose clamps. If a hose is split or a gasket is clearly damaged, plan on replacing it, not “gooping it up”.
- 8. Clean the tub filter and sump area inside the machine so it drains correctly and doesn’t slosh over the edge again.
- 9. Reassemble the toe-kick, slide the unit back in carefully, turn the water back on, then restore power at the breaker.
- 10. Run a short rinse cycle while watching the bottom (toe-kick off) with a flashlight. If no fresh leaks and no F15, you’re good.
- 11. If F15 comes back and you still can’t see a drip, you’re likely dealing with a hairline tub crack, warped sump, or faulty leak sensor. At that point the official line is: stop using it and call a pro.
The Technician’s Trick
Here’s what techs do when it leaked once (over-sudsing, someone kicked the door, etc.) and you just want it running again to confirm:
- 1. Kill power at the breaker. Safety first.
- 2. Throw a big towel in front of the dishwasher.
- 3. Gently pull the dishwasher out 6–12 inches.
- 4. Tilt the whole machine forward about 30–45° so any water trapped in the base pan pours out onto the towel.
- 5. Hold it there a few seconds, then set it back down and mop up everything.
- 6. If you can reach, point a fan or hair dryer (low heat) at the base pan area for 15–20 minutes to dry the float / sensor.
- 7. Restore power and run a quick rinse while watching for fresh leaks.
If F15 clears and doesn’t come back, you probably had a one-time overflow (too much detergent, door not fully latched, big pan blocking spray). If it comes back, stop the games and track down the real leak – repeated flooding will eventually fry the electronics and floor.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: F15 traced to a loose clamp, bad door gasket, or a single hose or valve – parts are cheap, labor is straightforward, and the dishwasher is under ~8–10 years old.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Repeated F15 with no obvious leak, unit 10–12 years old, or you’re looking at a sump/tub gasket plus 1–2 hours of paid labor.
- ❌ Replace: Cracked tub, water-damaged wiring or control boards from chronic leaking, or an older GE Profile that needs several wet parts at once – the bill starts to chase the cost of a new machine.
Parts You Might Need
- Door gasket / tub gasket
Find door gasket on Amazon - Inlet water valve
Find inlet water valve on Amazon - Drain hose
Find drain hose on Amazon - Float switch / leak sensor
Find float switch / leak sensor on Amazon - Sump / diverter gasket kit
Find sump / diverter gasket kit on Amazon - Circulation pump and motor assembly
Find circulation pump and motor assembly on Amazon
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See also
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