What This Error Means
F19 on a GE Profile dishwasher is a control fault code. The electronic control board failed its self-check and shut the cycle down.
In plain terms: the dishwasher’s brain glitched or sees a problem in its own electronics, so it either will not start or bails out mid-cycle and throws F19.
This is not a clogged filter or slightly open door issue; it is the control system complaining.
Official Fix
What GE basically wants you to do:
- Kill power completely. Flip the dishwasher breaker off or unplug it. Leave it off for at least 5 minutes so the control fully discharges.
- While it is powered down, do not press any buttons. Just wait.
- Turn power back on. Try a short cycle (rinse or quick wash) with the tub empty.
- If F19 does not come back after a full cycle or two, it was likely a one-time control glitch from a power blip or static hit.
- If F19 pops up again right away or partway through the cycle, GE’s official line is: internal electronic failure.
- At that point the manual says: stop using the dishwasher and schedule service. A tech will test and usually replace the main control board, and sometimes the user interface board or wiring harness if they are not talking correctly.
- Before you call, basic user checks that the manual allows:
- Verify the household breaker is the right size and not tripping or buzzing.
- Make sure the outlet or junction box feeding the dishwasher is not burned or loose.
- If the code is persistent after a proper power reset, GE does not expect you to fix F19 with cleaning or button presses. It is an electronic repair.
The Technician’s Trick
What a field tech actually does on an F19 call, beyond “reset and hope”:
- Shut power off at the breaker and confirm the control panel is dead. Do not trust the door switch alone.
- Remove the toe-kick panel at the bottom front. On most GE Profile units the main control board lives behind it, usually in a plastic housing on the right side.
- Open the door and remove the inner door panel screws to access the user interface board along the top of the door, if needed.
- Visually inspect every connector going into the main control and into the UI board:
- Look for loose plugs that are not fully seated.
- Check for green or white corrosion on pins from moisture or a small leak.
- Look for browned, melted, or cracked spots on the board itself.
- Trace the harness where it bends at the door hinge for pinched or broken wires.
- One by one, unplug and firmly replug each connector on the main board and UI board. Do not yank on the wires; grab the plastic plug.
- If you see light moisture or condensation around the board, dry it:
- Leave the door and toe-kick open and blow a room fan at the area for 30 to 60 minutes, or
- Use a hair dryer on low heat, moving constantly, for 10 to 15 minutes. Do not cook the board.
- Reassemble, restore power, and run a short cycle.
- If F19 is gone and stays gone for several washes, you likely had a borderline connection or moisture issue, not a fully dead board.
- If F19 returns immediately and the board looks scorched, swollen, or smells burned, the real fix is replacement of the main control board, and sometimes the UI board if it shows damage.
- If you are not comfortable opening panels or working around wiring, stop at the breaker reset step and call a pro. Do not poke around live 120V circuits.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under about 8-10 years old, cabinet and racks in good shape, and F19 points to a single control board. Expect roughly $120-$250 for the part, $250-$450 total with labor. Worth doing on a decent GE Profile unit.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Machine around 8-12 years old, plus other issues (sticking buttons, occasional leaks, noisy pump). If you might need both main control and UI board, you could be in the $350-$550 range. Think hard before sinking that into an older machine.
- ❌ Replace: Tub is rusting, racks are shot, motor is loud, or the unit is 10-15+ years old and now has an F19 control fault. Do not throw several hundred dollars at it; put the money toward a new, more efficient dishwasher.
Parts You Might Need
- Main control board (primary cause of a true F19 on most units). Find Main control board on Amazon
- User interface / touchpad board (if buttons act weird or panel is dead along with F19). Find User interface / touchpad board on Amazon
- Door latch assembly (if the machine sometimes thinks the door is open and throws random faults). Find Door latch assembly on Amazon
- Door wiring harness (if wires are broken where the door bends, killing communication between UI and main control). Find Door wiring harness on Amazon
- Flood / float switch (if there is water in the base pan tripping the safety circuit and confusing the control). Find Flood / float switch on Amazon
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See also
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