GE Profile Dishwasher F24 Fix (Error Code Guide)

Here’s the straight, by-the-book path a tech or manual will push you down.

• Kill power first.
  Flip the dishwasher breaker off. Don’t trust just the front panel buttons.
• Do a hard reset.
  Leave the breaker off 5–10 minutes. Turn it back on and try a short cycle (Rinse/Express). If F24 never comes back, it was a control glitch and you’re done.
• If F24 comes back: get to the guts.
  Remove the lower kick plate (usually a few Phillips or 1/4″ hex screws). Have a towel down; you’re near plumbing.
• Check wiring to the heater and sensor.
  Follow the wires from the bottom of the tub to the control board. Look for:
  • Burnt or melted connectors
  • Chewed or pinched wires (especially where the door opens and closes)
  • Loose plugs that wiggle right off

  Fix: Reseat loose plugs. If insulation is cut or wire is broken, that harness section needs repair or replacement.

• Find the temperature sensor (thermistor).
  On most GE Profile units it’s a small plastic or metal probe in the sump area under the tub, with two small wires going to it. If it’s caked in grease/scale, clean it gently with a sponge and hot soapy water.
• Meter-check the sensor if you can.
  If you own a multimeter and know the basics:
  • Disconnect the sensor plug.
  • Measure resistance across the two pins.
  • You should see a solid resistance value, not 0 Ω (short) and not OL/open.

  If it reads dead short or open, the sensor is toast – replace it.

• Inspect the heating element.
  On many Profiles it’s a loop under the tub or integrated into a metal assembly.
  • Look for cracks, blisters, or burn marks.
  • If you meter it, it should show some resistance (again, not 0 Ω, not OL).

  Visibly damaged or open = replace the heater.

• Check for water in the base pan.
  Some models freak out when there’s a small leak into the bottom tray. Use a flashlight:
  • If you see water pooled in the base, soak it up with towels/sponges.
  • Find the drip source (loose hose, pump seal, etc.).

  A wet base can short connectors and confuse readings, triggering codes like F24.

• Inspect the control board.
  Pop the metal or plastic cover off the control module (usually behind the kick plate or in the door, depending on model).
  • Look for burnt spots, swollen/bubbled components, or scorched smell.
  • If it looks cooked, that board’s suspect.
• Replace the failed part in this order of likelihood:
  1. Temperature sensor / thermistor
  2. Heater or its wiring
  3. Wiring harness section (if visibly damaged)
  4. Main control board

  Always match model number and part number when ordering.

• Reassemble and test.
  Put panels back on, restore power, run a hot cycle. No F24 and hot dishes at the end = you nailed it.

If any of this feels over your head – especially live wiring checks or control-board swaps – stop and call a pro. You’re dealing with 120V and water in a tight space.