GE Profile Dishwasher F35 Error Code Guide (Real-World Fix)

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What This Error Means

On a GE Profile dishwasher, F35 means a flood or overfill fault detected by the safety float in the base pan.

The control board thinks there is water sitting in the bottom of the machine or the fill level is too high, so it locks the cycle and often runs the drain pump instead of washing.

Official Fix

  • Kill power at the breaker or unplug the dishwasher. Do not just tap Start or Reset.
  • Shut off the water supply valve under the sink feeding the dishwasher.
  • Pop off the toe-kick panel at the bottom front. Pull out any insulation so you can see the metal base pan.
  • Use a flashlight and look in the pan. If there is any water at all, that is what tripped F35.
  • Sponge or towel out every bit of water from the base pan. The float needs a completely dry pan to drop back down.
  • Find the float or flood switch in the pan and flick it gently up and down. It must move freely and click, not feel sticky or jammed with grease, soap, or food bits.
  • With the pan still open, look around for where the water came from: door bottom, corners of the tub, inlet valve area, circulation pump, drain hose, or the plastic sump. Mineral tracks or rusty stains usually point right to the leak.
  • Tighten loose hose clamps, reseat hoses fully, and replace any hose that is cracked, swollen, or obviously leaking.
  • If the leak is from a gasket or seal that is clearly torn or flattened, plan to replace that gasket before running normal cycles again.
  • Reinstall the toe-kick, turn the water back on, restore power, and run a quick rinse cycle while you watch underneath for any fresh drips.

If F35 returns with a dry base pan and a free-moving float, the official next step is to test the float switch for continuity and, if that passes, replace the main control board that is misreading the flood circuit.

The Technician’s Trick

Here is the shortcut techs use when the pan is just a bit wet and you need to prove the leak or get one emergency load done.

  • Unplug the dishwasher and shut off the water. Slide the machine out from under the counter just enough so you can tilt it without smashing the cabinets.
  • Lay down big towels in front. Tilt the dishwasher forward about 20 to 30 degrees and hold it there so any trapped water in the base pan runs out onto the towels.
  • Set it back upright, dry off anything you can reach, then plug it back in and turn on the water.
  • Run a short cycle with the toe-kick off while you watch the base with a flashlight. As soon as you see where it drips, you know exactly what part needs attention.

This tilt trick is for diagnosis or a one-time run only. If F35 keeps coming back, fix the leak or bad float switch properly instead of living in flood mode.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under about 8 to 10 years old, stainless tub still solid, leak turns out to be a hose, clamp, door seal, or float switch. Parts are cheap and labor is straightforward.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit in the 10 to 13 year range, needs both a float switch and possibly a control board, or has other issues like noisy pump. Total repair cost creeping over one third to one half of a new mid-range dishwasher.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub is rusted or cracked, sump or motor assembly is leaking, or parts plus labor are getting close to the price of a decent new machine. Do not sink big money into a worn-out box.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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