GE Profile Dishwasher F43 Error Code Guide (Fast Fix)

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What This Error Means

F43 on a GE Profile dishwasher means a wash / circulation motor fault.

The control board is not seeing the right electrical feedback from the main pump, so it aborts the cycle instead of spraying water.

Official Fix

This is the play the manual wants you to run.

  • Kill power at the breaker and shut off the water. No testing or poking until it is dead.
  • Pull the dishwasher out a few inches so you can reach the bottom and sides without crushing the water line or drain hose.
  • Remove the toe kick panel and locate the circulation pump under the tub. Unplug the motor connector and check for loose, burned, or corroded pins.
  • From inside the tub, pull the bottom rack, remove the lower spray arm and filters, and look down into the sump to the impeller area.
  • Spin the impeller by hand (or with a screwdriver on the hub). It should turn freely and smoothly. If it is locked, gritty, or wobbly, the motor is likely done.
  • With a multimeter, check resistance across the motor terminals. Most healthy GE dishwasher wash motors sit roughly in the 10–40 Ω range. Open (OL) or near‑zero resistance = bad motor.
  • If the motor is seized, leaking, noisy, or fails the ohm test, replace the complete circulation pump assembly, not just the bare motor.
  • If the motor looks and tests good, inspect the main control board (usually in the door or a side pocket) for a burned motor relay or scorched traces. Replace the control if it is damaged.
  • Reassemble, restore power and water, clear the error per the tech sheet, and run a full wash cycle to verify the F43 code is gone.

The Technician’s Trick

What a real tech tries before ordering expensive parts.

  • Hard reset first. Kill power at the breaker for 5–10 minutes, then bring it back. If F43 came from a power spike or glitch, it can disappear and stay gone.
  • Free a jammed impeller without pulling the machine. With filters out, shine a light into the sump and fish out glass, bones, seeds, and labels. Then work the impeller back and forth until it spins freely. A “dead” motor that was just jammed will often run fine after this.
  • Listen for the sequence. If it fills with water, you hear a relay click, then just a faint hum and F43, the board is usually trying to run the motor and failing. That points at the pump, not the control.
  • Check for slow leaks on the motor shell. Any white mineral tracks or rust around the pump body mean water has been dripping on it. Replace the pump and the bad seal or sump gasket together, or you will kill the new motor too.
  • Only for people who know electricity: a brief test with a proper 120 V test cord directly on the motor (dishwasher unplugged, motor removed or safely isolated) will tell you fast if it is worth saving. If it just hums, arcs, or trips the breaker, stop right there and buy a new pump assembly. If you are not fully comfortable with live power, skip this step.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under about 8–10 years old, stainless tub, no major leaks, and F43 is the only complaint. A new wash motor is a solid investment.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 10+ years old, racks rusting, weak cleaning or drying, or you also need a control board. Get a quote; if parts plus labor start to flirt with half the price of a decent new dishwasher, think hard.
  • ❌ Replace: Cracked or badly rusted tub, repeated leak history, or repair estimate over ~50% of a quality replacement machine. Don’t throw good money after bad.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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