What This Error Means
F34 on a Whirlpool washing machine usually means ‘Door lock failure’.
The control board is not seeing a clean ‘door locked’ signal, so the washer refuses to start or aborts the cycle.
What this looks like:
- Washer will not start, just beeps and flashes F34.
- You hear the door lock click a few times, then it gives up.
- Sometimes it starts, then stops early and throws F34.
Bottom line: the machine thinks the door is not safely locked, so it shuts everything down.
Official Fix
This is the step-by-step the manual and Whirlpool support want you to follow:
- Unplug the washer from the wall for at least 1 minute to reset the control.
- Open and close the door firmly. Make sure nothing is caught in the door gasket or latch area.
- Check the rubber door boot. If it is folded into the opening, straighten it so the door can close flat.
- Look at the door side: inspect the metal or plastic strike (the hook that goes into the lock). If it is cracked, bent, or loose, it must be replaced.
- Close the door and push hard on the latch side while you start a cycle. If it now runs without F34, the door is not lining up or the lock is weak.
- Level the washer. If the front has dropped, the door can sag and miss the lock. Adjust front feet so the machine does not lean forward.
- Try another cycle. If F34 comes back, the official next step is to have a technician check and replace the door lock assembly and its wiring harness.
- If the lock has burn marks, melted plastic, or a strong burnt smell, the lock assembly is considered failed and should be replaced before using the washer again.
Whirlpool documentation treats F34 as a safety fault: if basic door checks do not clear it, they want the door lock and wiring inspected and replaced by service, and in rare cases the main control board if it is not powering the lock correctly.
The Technician’s Trick
Here is how a field tech actually chases F34 on a Whirlpool front loader.
Only do this if you are comfortable with a screwdriver. Always unplug first.
- Unplug the washer. No power, no exceptions.
- Try a quick test: close the door and press hard on the latch side while you start a cycle. If it runs only while you are pushing, the lock and door are out of alignment, not fully dead.
- Remove the top panel: take out the screws at the back edge, slide the top toward you, then lift it off.
- Look down at the front corner where the door lock sits. You will see the lock body and a wiring plug going into it.
- Reseat the connector: pull the plug off and push it back on two or three times. This scrubs oxidation off the pins and can clear intermittent F34 errors.
- Check for heat damage: if the plastic around the pins is brown or warped, or the plug is crispy, plan on a new lock assembly and often a short pigtail harness.
- Loosen, do not remove, the two screws that hold the lock to the front panel. Push the whole lock body slightly toward the drum (so the door strike goes deeper into it), then tighten the screws again. This fixes a lot of borderline alignment issues.
- Reinstall the top, plug the washer back in, and test a cycle. If F34 is gone, you just saved a service call.
- If the code is still there, the pro move is to replace the door lock assembly. On most Whirlpool models it is held by two screws from the front and one plug from the top. Swap it, reassemble, test.
Techs almost never start with the main control board on an F34. Door lock alignment, connections, and the lock itself are the usual culprits.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: The washer is under about 8–10 years old, no other major issues, and the lock or strike is obviously worn or intermittent. A door lock job is usually cheap and fast compared to a new machine.
- ⚠️ Debatable: The machine is older than 10 years, has had previous control or wiring problems, or you need both a lock and a control board. Price out parts and labor versus a basic new washer.
- ❌ Replace: The tub bearings are noisy, the machine walks across the floor, there is rust or leaks, and now it needs a lock and maybe a board. Do not sink money into it; put the cash toward a replacement.
Parts You Might Need
- Door lock / interlock assembly (Whirlpool front-load washer) – Find Door lock / interlock assembly on Amazon
- Door strike / latch hook – Find Door strike / latch hook on Amazon
- Door hinge (if the door is sagging and not lining up with the lock) – Find Door hinge on Amazon
- Door lock wiring pigtail / harness repair kit – Find Door lock wiring pigtail / harness repair kit on Amazon
- Main control board (only after the lock and wiring have been ruled out) – Find Main control board on Amazon
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