What This Error Means
F15 = Freezer evaporator fan fault.
On current Samsung French-door and Family Hub style refrigerators, this code means the board is not seeing the freezer fan spin correctly, so cold air is not moving through the freezer like it should.
Official Fix
What Samsung and the manual want you to do:
- Power reset the fridge. Unplug it or flip the breaker for 5 minutes, then power it back on. Sometimes F15 is just a glitch from a power blip.
- Check doors and airflow. Make sure nothing is blocking the freezer vents, drawers close all the way, and the door seals are clean so it is not sucking in humid air that ices up the fan.
- Listen for the freezer fan. Open the freezer, hold the door switch with your finger, and listen at the back wall. You should hear a small fan. If you hear nothing or grinding, the fan area is iced or the motor is bad.
- Do a full manual defrost. Official method: empty the food, unplug the fridge, leave both doors open 24 to 48 hours so every chunk of ice around the evaporator and fan melts. Towels on the floor; there will be water.
- Restart and recheck. When everything is dry, power it up. If F15 stays gone and cooling is normal, you are done. If it comes back, Samsung’s answer is: schedule a service call to test and replace the fan motor, sensors, or main board.
If you are under warranty, stop here and let Samsung handle it.
The Technician’s Trick
Here is how a real tech usually clears F15 faster and keeps it from coming back.
- Force-defrost instead of waiting days. On many Samsung models you can enter service mode by holding the Freezer and Fridge buttons together for about 8 to 10 seconds until the panel beeps and flashes. Tap the Freezer button until you see “Fd” or “dF” for forced defrost on the display and let it run 15 to 20 minutes to soften the ice around the fan. If that combo does not match your panel, look up the exact sequence for your model.
- Kill power and open the freezer wall. Unplug the fridge. Pull out the freezer drawers and remove the rear inside panel (screws and clips). Go slow; there are wires behind it.
- De-ice the fan and evaporator fast. Use a hair dryer on low or medium and warm the ice on the coils and around the fan shroud. Keep the nozzle moving so you do not melt plastic. Soak up melt water with towels or a pan.
- Fix the drain while you are in there. Under the evaporator is a drain trough. If it is packed with ice or the rubber drain grommet is nearly closed, water sits and re-freezes into the fan. Clear the drain with hot water and a turkey baster. If the grommet is tight, open the slit slightly so water can actually drain.
- Test the fan before closing up. Spin the fan blades by hand; they should turn freely with no scraping. Plug the fridge back in with the panel still off, hold the door switch, and wait for the fan. Keep fingers clear. If it does not start or only twitches, the motor is done and you replace it. If it runs smooth and quiet, the main problem was ice and drainage.
- Reassemble tight. Unplug again, reinstall the rear panel, and get every screw back in. Any gap there lets moist air in and you are back to ice and F15.
That combo — clear ice, open the drain, and swap a weak fan — fixes most F15 calls without repeat visits.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Fridge under about 8 to 10 years old, everything else works fine, and you are only looking at a fan motor, drain cleanup, and maybe one sensor.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 8 to 12 years old, you need both the fan and the main control board, or this is the second or third ice-up problem. Compare the quote to a new mid-range fridge.
- ❌ Replace: Fridge 10 to 12 plus years old, F15 plus other issues like warm fresh food section, noisy compressor, or sealed system troubles. Do not pour big money into it.
Parts You Might Need
- Freezer evaporator fan motor – most common failure when F15 will not clear and the fan does not run. Find Freezer evaporator fan motor on Amazon
- Evaporator cover / fan shroud assembly – replaces warped or cracked covers that let frost get into the fan. Find Evaporator cover / fan shroud assembly on Amazon
- Defrost heater assembly – if the coils keep freezing solid again after a full defrost, the heater may be weak or open. Find Defrost heater assembly on Amazon
- Defrost temperature sensor / thermistor – cheap part that tells the board when to stop defrost; if it reads wrong, you get build-up. Find Defrost temperature sensor / thermistor on Amazon
- Drain heater or drain strap – helps keep the drain hole from re-freezing in cold or very humid kitchens. Find Drain heater or drain strap on Amazon
- Main control board (PCB) – last resort if you have a known good fan and sensors but F15 still returns. Find Main control board (PCB) on Amazon
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