Samsung Refrigerator F19 Fix (Error Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

F19 on a Samsung refrigerator usually means a freezer / ice-maker evaporator fan fault – the board thinks that fan is blocked, iced over, or dead.

In plain terms: the cold air isn’t being pushed around, so the fridge starts warming up or cooling unevenly.

  • Freezer back wall packed with ice or a big frost patch.
  • Clicking / buzzing / grinding from the freezer area, then silence.
  • Fridge side getting warm while freezer is “kind of” cold.
  • F19 pops back shortly after you reset power.

If your user manual or label says F19 is something else for your exact model, go with that description, but in real-world service calls it almost always traces back to that fan circuit.

Official Fix

Samsung’s official playbook for an F19-type fan error is: diagnose the freezer / ice-maker evaporator fan circuit and replace bad parts, not just clear the code.

  • Unplug the fridge. No power while you’re in there. Kill the breaker if you can’t reach the plug.
  • Check basics first.
    • Make sure the doors are closing fully and the seals aren’t torn.
    • Clear anything blocking air vents inside the fridge and freezer.
    • If a drawer stops the door from closing, fix that now.
  • Inspect the freezer back panel for ice buildup.
    • Pull out the freezer drawers / shelf so you can see the back wall.
    • Heavy snow or a solid ice sheet on that panel usually means the fan is buried in ice or the defrost system is lagging.
  • Access the evaporator fan.
    • Remove the screws holding the inside back panel in the freezer (and ice-maker section if separate).
    • Gently pry the panel off; there will be foam and wiring behind it – don’t yank.
    • You should now see the evaporator coil and the fan assembly.
  • Check the fan and wiring.
    • Spin the fan blades by hand – they should turn freely, no scraping.
    • Look for ice packed around the fan or wiring harness.
    • Inspect connectors for corrosion, loose pins, or burnt spots.
  • Defrost and test.
    • Manually melt any ice with time and towels, or a hair dryer on low, kept moving and well away from plastic and foam.
    • Once clear, plug the fridge back in briefly and see if the fan actually runs (keep fingers out of there).
  • Replace failed parts.
    • If the fan gets power but doesn’t spin, replace the evaporator fan motor assembly.
    • If the fan runs but F19 keeps returning, test / replace the evaporator thermistor and check the wiring back to the main control board.
    • If wiring and parts test good but the board still throws F19, the main PCB is the suspect and should be replaced following the service manual.

That’s the “by the book” repair Samsung expects a tech to do: find which part in the fan circuit failed and swap it.

The Technician's Trick

What a lot of field techs try first, before throwing parts at an F19, is a full thaw and reset. On these Samsungs, ice creep around the fan and sensor wiring can fake a “dead fan” and trigger F19.

  • Empty the freezer. Pull food and ice bins out. Get towels ready.
  • Unplug the fridge and prop the doors open. Let it sit at least 12–24 hours so the freezer compartment and fan area can fully defrost.
  • Speed it up (optional but common in the trade).
    • Pull the inside back panel off the freezer once the plastic loosens.
    • Use a hair dryer on low, always moving, to melt ice off the fan, coil, and wiring harness.
    • Do not use a heat gun, and don’t cook the plastic or foam – warm, not roasting.
  • Free‑spin the fan. Once everything is dry, spin the fan by hand. If it turns freely and feels smooth, it’s usually fine.
  • Reassemble and power back up. Put the panel and drawers back, plug the unit in, set temps, and give it 6–12 hours.
  • Watch it. If F19 stays gone and temps are normal, you had an ice / airflow problem, not a dead fan. If F19 comes back within a day or two, you’re back to the Official Fix: replace the fan, sensor, or board.

This “deep defrost” trick often saves you from buying parts right away, especially on units that haven’t been defrosting correctly or have been overpacked.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Fridge under ~8–10 years old, cabinet and doors in good shape, F19 appeared after a spell of heavy icing or door left ajar, and the fan runs once thawed.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: F19 keeps returning every few months, you need a fan plus sensors, and the unit is 10+ years old or an entry-level model.
  • ❌ Replace: Multiple errors along with F19 (warm fridge, dead display, noisy compressor), quoted for a main board and fan parts, or the fridge is past 12–15 years – put that money toward a new unit.

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