What does the F22 error code mean on a LG TV?

The F22 error on a LG TV indicates a The F22 error is a generic internal fault code in an LG OLED TV indicating a power-on self-test failure. Symptoms include a TV that clicks on but shows F22 or shuts off, standby light blinking, and a black screen.. It typically occurs when the Main Board, Power Supply, Panel Control fails to communicate with the main control board.

Is it worth fixing the F22 error?

It depends. If the issue is a Main Board, Power Supply, Panel Control (cost approx $200), it is worth it. If the main board is fried, the cost can be $450, which is a significant portion of a new machine. We recommend Follow official repair steps. If unresolved, consult a technician or consider part replacement based on age and condition..

LG OLED TV F22 Error Code Fix

What This Error Means

F22 on an LG OLED TV is a generic internal fault code the set throws when its power‑on self‑test fails.
Plain English: the TV sees a problem on the main board, power supply, or panel control and refuses to boot normally.

Common symptoms:

TV clicks on, maybe flashes the logo, then shows F22 or shuts back off.
Standby light blinks, screen stays black, remote does nothing.
Code comes back every time you power it up until you pull the plug.

So this is not “just a setting” – the TV thinks its hardware or power is unsafe and locks itself down.

Official Fix

Do the easy, non-invasive stuff first. This is basically what LG support will walk you through:

1. Hard power reset.
- Turn the TV off and unplug it from the wall for at least 60 seconds.
- While unplugged, hold the power button on the TV (not the remote) for 15–20 seconds.
- Plug it directly into a wall outlet and power it on.
If F22 was just a latched protection fault from a power blip, it usually clears here.
2. Run it bare.
- Disconnect every HDMI, USB, antenna, soundbar, and console.
- Power on with only the power cord connected.
If F22 disappears, reconnect devices one by one until the bad one shows itself.
3. Try a different circuit.
- Skip power strips and surge protectors for now; go wall‑outlet direct.
- If possible, test on a different outlet in another room.
Noisy or weak mains can trip the power board’s protection.
4. Update firmware (only if you can reach menus).
- Go to Settings → All Settings → Support → Software Update.
- Run Check for Updates and install anything it finds, then reboot.
Once in a while LG fixes touchy protection logic in software.
5. Factory reset (if it still boots enough to show a picture).
- Go to Settings → All Settings → General → System → Reset to Initial Settings.
- Confirm and let it restart from scratch.
This wipes any corrupt settings or apps that might be crashing the control board.
6. Call for service.
- If F22 holds with nothing attached and after resets, LG treats it as hardware failure.
- Standard fix is swapping the main board, sometimes the power supply or panel control board.
- Out of warranty, typical shop bill is roughly US$200–US$450 depending on screen size and board cost.

If you’re still staring at F22 after all that, you’re in “parts and screwdrivers” territory.

The Technician’s Trick

This is the stuff field techs actually try once warranty isn’t a concern. If you’re not comfortable opening the TV, stop at the official steps.

1. Real discharge, not a quick unplug.
Unplug the TV, then hold the power button on the TV for a full 60 seconds. Let it sit 5–10 minutes unplugged, then plug it back in and test. This fully bleeds the power supply; a lot of “mystery” F22s die right here.
2. Pop the back and reseat connectors (advanced).
With the TV unplugged and face‑down on something soft, pull the rear cover. Gently disconnect and reconnect:
- The flat ribbons between main board and panel / T‑Con.
- The multi‑wire plug from the power board to the main board.
- Any small daughter boards (inputs, buttons) that look half‑seated.
One loose ribbon from a wall‑mount job is enough to throw F‑codes all day.
3. Isolate a bad module.
Still unplugged, disconnect the Wi‑Fi/Bluetooth module from the main board, reassemble loosely, and power up. If the TV suddenly boots normally (but without Wi‑Fi), replace that module. Same trick works with USB/side‑input boards: unplug, test, see if F22 changes behavior.

If any of this feels like too much, close it up and let a shop finish the job. Better than cracking an OLED panel.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

✅ Fix: TV under ~6 years old, no burn‑in, and a repair quote under about US$350 or covered by warranty/extended plan.
⚠️ Debatable: Mid‑age set (6–8 years), light image retention, and a quote in the US$350–US$500 range.
❌ Replace: Panel has burn‑in, cracked glass, or needs both main and panel/PSU boards, or the repair cost is more than ~60% of a comparable new OLED.

Parts You Might Need

LG OLED Power Supply Board – common fix when the set clicks on then off with F22. Find LG OLED Power Supply Board on Amazon
LG OLED Main Board – usual culprit when the TV powers but won’t boot properly or keeps throwing F22. Find LG OLED Main Board on Amazon
LG OLED T-Con / Panel Control Board – for cases with odd panel behavior plus F22 on startup. Find LG OLED T-Con / Panel Control Board on Amazon
LG OLED Wi-Fi Bluetooth Module – replace if F22 clears when you unplug the wireless module. Find LG OLED Wi-Fi Bluetooth Module on Amazon
LG TV Power Cord – cheap swap if there’s any sign of heat damage or looseness at the plug. Find LG TV Power Cord on Amazon
Electronics TV Repair Tool Kit – plastic pry tools, small screwdrivers, and an ESD strap for safe board work. Find Electronics TV Repair Tool Kit on Amazon

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