What This Error Means
F35 on an LG OLED TV is an internal fault / protection code. The TV thinks something is wrong in its power or control electronics and locks itself down.
In plain terms: the main board and power supply aren’t talking properly to the OLED panel, so the set reboots, stays dark, or throws F35 instead of showing a picture.
- Not a wrong-input problem.
- Not a bad HDMI cable issue.
- Usually a power, firmware, or main-board fault.
If it comes back right after you power it up, the TV is failing its self-check when it tries to drive the panel.
Official Fix
LG treats F35 as a service-level error. Their playbook is simple: basic reset, then call a tech.
- 1. Hard power reset (LG-approved version)
- Turn the TV off.
- Unplug the power cord from the wall.
- Leave it unplugged for at least 60 seconds.
- Plug it straight into a wall outlet (no strip, no surge bar) and try powering on again.
- 2. Strip it down to just the TV
- Unplug all HDMI devices (consoles, soundbars, streaming sticks, PC).
- Unplug USB drives and any external storage.
- Try powering on with only the power cord connected.
- If F35 disappears with everything disconnected, one of those devices or cables may be tripping protection.
- 3. Check the obvious power stuff
- Make sure the wall outlet is solid: test it with a lamp.
- If you were using a cheap power strip, stay off it. Go direct to the wall.
- Check the TV’s power cord is fully seated in the back of the set.
- 4. Try a software update (only if it boots enough)
- If you can reach the menu at all, go to: Settings > All Settings > Support > Software Update.
- Run Check for Updates and install anything it finds.
- After the update, let the TV reboot on its own. Don’t yank the plug mid-update.
- 5. When the manual says “Stop. Call LG.”
- If F35 keeps coming back after the reset and update, LG’s official answer is service only.
- Contact LG support with your model, serial number, and the F35 code.
- Authorized service will usually:
-
- Run internal diagnostics with a service remote.
- Check power supply voltages and protection lines.
- Replace the main (logic) board if it’s a control/firmware fault.
- Replace the power supply board if voltages are unstable.
- In rare cases, replace the OLED panel assembly if the panel itself is faulting.
The official stance: no user-serviceable parts inside for F35. If a basic reset and update don’t clear it, they want a tech on it.
The Technician’s Trick
Here’s what bench techs usually try before ordering expensive boards. Do this only if you’re comfortable with basic troubleshooting.
- 1. Real “power drain” reset
- Turn the TV off and unplug it from the wall.
- On the TV itself (not the remote), press and hold the power button for 30 seconds.
- Let it sit another 5 minutes unplugged.
- Plug back in and power on.
- This bleeds off the power supply and can clear a latched protection state that a quick unplug won’t touch.
- 2. Full factory reset from the menus (if you can get any picture at all)
- With the TV on, hit Settings on the remote.
- Go to All Settings > General > Reset to Initial Settings.
- Confirm the reset and let the TV reboot and walk through setup again.
- Corrupted settings/NVRAM can trigger protection codes; a full reset wipes that out.
- 3. USB firmware reload (more advanced, but still DIY)
- On a PC, go to LG’s support page for your exact TV model.
- Download the latest firmware and follow LG’s instructions to put it on a FAT32 USB stick.
- With the TV off, plug the USB into the TV.
- Power the TV on and wait. Many models will auto-detect the firmware and prompt to update.
- Let the process finish. Do not cut power during this.
- If F35 was caused by a corrupted firmware image, this can bring it back.
- 4. Out-of-warranty only: quick connector check
- Warning: You can get shocked off the power board if you’re careless. If you’re not handy with tools, skip this.
- Unplug the TV and leave it for at least 10–15 minutes to let capacitors discharge.
- Carefully remove the back cover (keep track of screws).
- Gently press on the multi-pin plugs going between the power board, main board, and panel driver boards to make sure they’re seated.
- Do not yank on ribbon cables; just make sure nothing is obviously loose or half-plugged.
- Reassemble, power up, and see if F35 is gone.
If none of that even changes the behavior, you’re likely looking at a bad main board, power board, or panel — no magic combo of buttons will fix that.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: TV is under warranty, or it’s a 55″+ premium OLED less than ~5 years old and the quote to replace a board is clearly cheaper than a new set.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Mid-range OLED that’s 5–7 years old, out of warranty, with a repair quote in the few-hundred-dollar range and no major burn-in yet.
- ❌ Replace: Panel has visible burn-in, cracks, or lines plus an F35 fault, or the repair quote is over ~60–70% of the cost of a new comparable TV.
Parts You Might Need
- LG OLED TV power supply board (PSU) – common culprit when protection codes pop up after power events.
Find power supply board on Amazon - LG OLED TV main board / logic board – handles processing, HDMI, control; often replaced for stubborn fault codes.
Find main board on Amazon - LG OLED TV T-Con or panel driver board (model-dependent) – drives the panel timing; failure can trigger protection errors and no picture.
Find T-Con / driver board on Amazon - LG OLED LVDS / ribbon cable set – if a cable is damaged or not making contact between boards and panel.
Find LVDS / ribbon cables on Amazon - LG Magic Remote (replacement) – cheap sanity check if your current remote is glitching or misreading states while you test.
Find LG Magic Remote on Amazon
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