What This Error Means
F39 on an LG OLED TV basically means: the TV is seeing an internal hardware fault in the power / panel drive path (main board, power board, or panel communication).
In plain terms: the TV tries to start, doesn’t like what it sees in its own power or panel circuits, throws F39, and either locks up or shuts down to protect itself. This is not a simple HDMI or picture-setting issue.
- Common signs: TV clicks on then off, F39 flashes on screen, maybe no picture, maybe no sound.
- Remote might do nothing, or the TV reboots in a loop.
- Usually shows up after a power surge, brownout, or completely at random after years of use.
Official Fix
Here’s the by-the-book stuff you can do without opening the TV.
- 1. Hard power reset (properly):
- Unplug the TV from the wall. Not just turning it off. Fully out.
- With it unplugged, press and hold the power button on the TV (not the remote) for about 15–20 seconds.
- Wait at least 10 minutes with it unplugged to let the power supply discharge.
- Plug it back directly into a wall outlet, no surge strip or smart plug, and try turning it on.
- 2. Strip all accessories off the TV:
- Unplug everything from the TV: HDMI devices, soundbar, USB drives, antenna, gaming consoles, everything.
- Try powering the TV with nothing connected except the power cord.
- If F39 only appears with a certain device plugged in, that device or cable may be causing a fault or surge.
- 3. Try a different outlet:
- Plug the TV into a known-good wall outlet on a different circuit if you can.
- A bad surge strip, UPS, or smart power bar can trip the TV’s protection and trigger error codes.
- 4. If the TV will stay on long enough, do the software side:
- Go to Settings > All Settings > Support > Software Update and run Update Now.
- Then go to General/System > Reset to Initial Settings (wording varies by model) and do a factory reset.
- If after a clean reset and update you still get F39, assume it’s hardware, not software.
- 5. What the manual wants you to do next:
- If F39 comes back immediately after the steps above, the official line is: internal failure, service required.
- Grab your model number (back of the TV) and serial number, plus proof of purchase.
- Check if you’re still under warranty or if the panel has extended coverage (some regions give extra years on OLED panels).
- Contact LG support or an authorized service center and tell them you’re getting error F39 on an LG OLED TV. They’ll usually go straight to board testing/replacement.
If these steps don’t clear it, you’re out of “user fix” territory. At that point, it’s boards or panel.
The Technician’s Trick
Here’s what we actually try in the field before ordering expensive boards.
- Deep discharge reset (more than a normal unplug):
- Unplug the TV from the wall.
- Press and hold the power button on the TV for a full 30 seconds. Don’t cheat it.
- Wait 30 minutes with it still unplugged. Let the power supply and panel rails bleed down fully.
- Plug it back in directly to the wall.
- Turn it on using the button on the TV itself, not the remote.
If F39 was just a latched protection state from a power blip, this often clears it. If a board is actually bad, it’ll just throw F39 again or shut down.
- Quick-start and standby quirks:
- If you get it to boot once, go straight into Settings > General > Power and turn Quick Start+ (or similar) OFF.
- These standby modes can stress borderline power supplies; turning them off sometimes stops repeat F39 after a marginal surge event.
- What a real shop does (for your expectations):
- Open the TV (do not do this yourself unless you know what you’re doing; there’s high voltage inside).
- Measure power supply outputs, check for missing voltages when the set tries to start.
- Reseat or replace panel/power ribbons, and swap in a known-good power board or main board to see which one kills F39.
- If the panel itself is loading the supply and tripping protection, it’s usually game over financially.
If the deep discharge and quick-start tweaks don’t change anything, assume you’re looking at a board or panel replacement.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: TV is under ~5–6 years old, no burn-in or cracked panel, and a quote for power/main board work comes in under about 40–50% of a similar new LG OLED.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Set is 6–8 years old or out of any panel coverage, F39 is tied to power/main board only, and the repair cost is around half the price of a new one — depends how much you like the picture and your budget.
- ❌ Replace: Panel is diagnosed bad, multiple boards are quoted, or the total repair is near the cost of a new TV (especially on older 55″/65″ sets where new models are much cheaper now).
Parts You Might Need
- Power supply board (PSU) for LG OLED TV – common failure after surges or brownouts that can throw F39.
Find Power supply board (PSU) on Amazon - Main / logic board for LG OLED TV – handles signal processing and panel control; a bad one can lock the set into F39.
Find Main / logic board on Amazon - T-Con / panel driver board (where separate) – some OLEDs use a separate driver board; faults here can trigger protection errors like F39.
Find T-Con / panel driver board on Amazon - LVDS / panel ribbon cable set – damaged or loose ribbons between boards and panel can mimic board failure.
Find LVDS / ribbon cables on Amazon - Replacement AC power cord for LG TV – cheap, and worth ruling out if the original looks damaged or loose.
Find AC power cord on Amazon
Always match the part number on your original boards and your exact model (for example, OLED55C1, OLED65CX, etc.) before ordering.
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