What This Error Means
F108 means the MacBook Pro’s diagnostics detected a logic-board hardware fault, usually on a power or sensor line.
In practice the machine is failing its self-test, so it may not boot reliably, may crash under load, or may refuse to pass Apple Diagnostics.
- Often shows only when you run Apple Diagnostics or a service tool, not as a big on-screen warning in macOS.
- Common symptoms: no power, fan spins then dies, random shutdowns, or won’t charge properly.
- This is a hardware flag, not a software “glitch” message.
Official Fix
Apple’s playbook for an F108-type code is simple: confirm it, then replace hardware.
- Confirm the code.
- Shut the MacBook Pro down.
- Intel models: power on and immediately hold D until Apple Diagnostics starts.
- Apple silicon models (M1/M2/M3): hold the power button until “Options” appears, then press Command + D.
- Run the test. If you see F108 again, Apple treats it as a repeatable hardware fault.
- Back up immediately. If the Mac still boots, copy your data off now (Time Machine or clone to an external drive).
- Check coverage. Look up your serial on Apple’s coverage page and see if you’re under warranty or AppleCare.
- Book service with Apple or an Authorized Service Provider.
- They rerun diagnostics to confirm F108.
- They don’t “repair” the bad section; they swap the failing assembly (usually the main logic board, sometimes I/O board or top case).
- They run post-repair diagnostics to verify the code is gone.
- Pay up or approve warranty repair. Out of warranty, this is usually billed as a logic-board or top-case replacement job.
Officially, there is no menu option, keystroke, or end-user setting that clears an F108 once it’s confirmed. Apple’s fix is hardware replacement.
The Technician’s Trick
What we do on the bench before calling it a dead board:
- Hard-reset all the low-level controllers.
- Power drain: shut down, unplug charger, hold the power button for 10–15 seconds, then release.
- SMC reset (Intel only): shut down, then hold Shift (left) + Control (left) + Option (left) + Power for 10 seconds, release, then power on.
- NVRAM/PRAM reset (Intel only): power on and immediately hold Option + Command + P + R for ~20 seconds, then release.
- Apple silicon models don’t have SMC/NVRAM resets in the same way; a full shutdown for 30 seconds is the closest you get.
- Run Apple Diagnostics again. If F108 disappears after the resets and the machine is stable, you dodged a bullet. If it comes back, keep going.
- Open it up and reseat the basics (only if you’re comfortable and out of warranty).
- Remove the bottom case screws and lift the cover.
- Disconnect the battery connector from the logic board and wait 60 seconds.
- Check for obvious liquid damage or corrosion, especially around the battery connector, I/O board, and fan area.
- Gently reseat ribbon cables: trackpad/keyboard flex, I/O board flex, and fan connectors. A half-seated cable can trigger sensor and power faults.
- Blow out dust from fans and vents; packed dust can cause overheat-related sensor trips.
- Test with battery unplugged.
- With the bottom still off, leave the battery disconnected.
- Plug in the charger and try to power on.
- If it boots fine on charger only and diagnostics now pass, the battery is suspect, not the board.
- Reassemble and stress-test.
- Reconnect the battery, reinstall the bottom cover, and boot.
- Run Apple Diagnostics again. If F108 is gone and the Mac survives 20–30 minutes of heavy use without crashing, you’re probably safe to keep using it.
- If F108 keeps coming back or the Mac still crashes, you’re looking at a real board-level fault: logic-board replacement or micro-solder repair.
If you’re not comfortable opening the machine or you see any sign of liquid damage, stop and hand it to a pro. For real F108 hardware faults, there’s no software magic; something on the board is actually bad.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Recent MacBook Pro (roughly <5 years old), no liquid damage, and a quote under about 40–50% of the cost of a comparable replacement.
- ⚠️ Debatable: 5–7 years old or light liquid damage; logic-board/top-case quotes in the 50–70% of replacement range, or you rely on it daily and downtime is expensive.
- ❌ Replace: 7+ years old, heavy liquid or corrosion, multiple issues (battery + keyboard + F108), or any repair quote that’s close to the price of a good used or entry-level new MacBook.
Parts You Might Need
- Replacement MacBook Pro Logic Board – for confirmed board-level F108 faults where other tricks don’t clear it.
Find Replacement MacBook Pro Logic Board on Amazon - MacBook Pro I/O Board / USB-C Board – if diagnostics point toward ports or charging and reseating cables doesn’t help.
Find MacBook Pro I/O Board / USB-C Board on Amazon - MacBook Pro Battery – for units that pass diagnostics on charger only but fail or shut down on battery power.
Find MacBook Pro Battery on Amazon - MacBook Pro Cooling Fan Assembly – if the fan is noisy, seized, or diagnostics mention fan/sensor issues along with F108.
Find MacBook Pro Cooling Fan Assembly on Amazon - MacBook Pro Top Case / Keyboard–Trackpad Assembly – for spills that took out keyboard/trackpad plus triggered the code.
Find MacBook Pro Top Case / Keyboard–Trackpad Assembly on Amazon - Pentalobe Screwdriver and MacBook Opening Tool Kit – needed to safely open the bottom case without stripping screws.
Find Pentalobe Screwdriver and MacBook Opening Tool Kit on Amazon
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