Apple MacBook Pro F110 Error Code Guide

by

What This Error Means

F110 usually means a logic board power fault on a MacBook Pro.

Translation: a main power rail on the board isn’t behaving, so the Mac won’t start reliably, keeps shutting off, or refuses to charge.

  • No chime, black screen, maybe a brief fan spin or keyboard flash, then dead.
  • Charger light / charging icon acts weird (no light, or flickers, or only some ports work).
  • Apple Diagnostics or a shop’s tester throws F110 or a similar power-related hardware code.

This is not a simple “app crash” issue; it’s being flagged as hardware.

Official Fix

Apple doesn’t list F110 publicly, but they treat this as a hardware power/logic-board problem. Their playbook is pretty standard:

  • Strip it down
    • Unplug everything: USB devices, hubs, drives, SD card, external monitor.
    • Leave only the MacBook and its charger.
  • Rule out a bad charger/cable
    • Use a known-good Apple-rated adapter and cable (correct wattage for your model).
    • Test all ports (each USB‑C side, or MagSafe if older).
    • If it only fails with one adapter/cable, Apple calls that an accessory issue, not F110.
  • Run the standard resets (Intel models)
    • SMC reset (Intel T2 MacBook Pro, 2018–2020): shut down → hold Right Shift + Left Option + Left Control for 7 seconds → while holding, press power too → hold all 4 another 7 seconds → release → wait 10 seconds → power on.
    • SMC reset (older Intel without T2): shut down → hold Shift + Control + Option (left side) + power for 10 seconds → release → power on.
    • NVRAM reset (Intel): power on and hold Option + Command + P + R for ~20 seconds, then let go.
  • Apple silicon models (M1/M2/M3)
    • No SMC reset. Shut down completely.
    • Hold the power button until “Options” shows; let it sit, then shut down again, wait 30 seconds, and power up normally.
  • Run Apple Diagnostics
    • Shut down.
    • Press power, then immediately hold D (or Option + D for internet diagnostics).
    • Let it finish. Note any reference codes it shows.
  • If it still flags hardware
    • Apple’s next step is a hardware repair ticket.
    • They inspect for liquid/cosmetic damage.
    • They replace the logic board (and sometimes I/O or top case) as a unit at a flat rate.

Officially, if F110 is tied to a real power-rail fault, Apple does not “clear” it in software. The fix is board-level part replacement through Apple or an authorized provider.

The Technician’s Trick

This is the stuff a bench tech does to avoid an automatic, expensive logic-board swap.

  • Deep power drain reset (safe, external only)
    • Unplug the charger.
    • Hold the power button for 30 seconds. Let it sit another 30 seconds.
    • Plug the charger back in and try to start it. Watch for any fan spin, sound, or backlight.
  • Battery disconnect reset (only if you’re comfortable opening it, and you’re out of warranty)
    • Shut it down. Unplug the charger.
    • Remove the bottom cover (Pentalobe screws; keep them in order).
    • Find the battery connector and gently disconnect it.
    • Press and hold the power button 10–15 seconds to fully discharge the board.
    • Reconnect the battery, reinstall the bottom case, plug in a known-good charger, and try to power up.
    • If it boots now, the SMC/PMIC was likely latched; this sometimes clears borderline F110-style faults.
  • Port isolation on USB‑C models
    • Test each USB‑C port one at a time with the same good charger.
    • If only one side (left or right) works, you may just have a bad USB‑C / I/O board on that side, not a dead logic board.
    • That is a much cheaper part to replace.
  • Quick liquid / burn check
    • With the bottom off, look around the USB‑C or MagSafe area and along the logic-board edges.
    • Green/white fuzz, black burn marks, or sticky residue = liquid or shorted components.
    • If you see that, stop forcing it on. Every power attempt can cook more of the board. Focus on data recovery and professional board repair.

If it still tosses F110 or stays stone dead after this, you’re realistically in logic-board repair or replacement territory. No magic key combo is fixing that.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: MacBook Pro under ~5–6 years old, no heavy liquid damage, and a charger / I/O board / single logic-board repair quoted under ~40–50% of a comparable replacement.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Machine is 6–8 years old, needs a logic board plus maybe a battery, or the quote is around half the cost of a solid used or refurbished MacBook Pro.
  • ❌ Replace: Over 8 years old, clear liquid or burn damage across the board, or logic-board work is 60–70%+ of a newer machine — better to put that cash into an upgrade.

Parts You Might Need

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.