Apple MacBook Pro F111 Error Code Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

F111 on a MacBook Pro usually points to a cooling fan / thermal system fault.

In plain terms: the Mac thinks a fan is dead, jammed, or not reporting speed properly, so it panics to avoid overheating and may throttle, blast the fans, or shut down.

This code often shows up after running Apple Diagnostics or a third-party EFI/SMC test. It does not mean software trouble; this is almost always hardware or dust/heat related.

Official Fix

Here’s the clean, by-the-book path Apple wants you to follow:

  • 1. Back up first.
    Before you touch anything, make a Time Machine or external backup. Hardware issues can get worse fast.
  • 2. Run Apple Diagnostics the right way.
    • Shut the MacBook Pro down completely.
    • Unplug all USB/Thunderbolt devices and external displays.
    • Turn it on and immediately hold D (or Option + D for internet diagnostics).
    • Let the test finish and confirm the F111 or related fan/thermal error shows again.
  • 3. Do the basic resets.
    • SMC reset (Intel MacBook Pro): shut down, then press and hold Shift + Control + Option + Power for 10 seconds, release, then power on.
    • NVRAM reset (Intel): power on and immediately hold Option + Command + P + R for ~20 seconds, then release.
    • Apple Silicon models manage SMC automatically; just shut down fully, wait 30 seconds, then restart.
    • Re-run Apple Diagnostics. If F111 is gone, you got lucky. If it’s back, move on.
  • 4. Check for obvious airflow problems.
    • Take off any tight rubber skins or hard cases that block the hinge or bottom vents.
    • Make sure the Mac isn’t sitting on a blanket, couch, or anything soft that smothers the vents.
    • Listen: does any fan spin up at all under load, or is it dead silent or making scraping noises?
  • 5. Official service route.
    If F111 keeps coming back, Apple’s official answer is: get it serviced.
    • Book an appointment at an Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service Provider.
    • They’ll run AST (Apple’s internal diagnostics) to confirm which fan/sensor is bad.
    • Standard fix is: replace the bad fan module. If the fan tests good but the signal is bad, they replace the logic board.
    • Out of warranty, this can range from a relatively cheap fan swap to a painful logic board bill.

That’s the official playbook: reset, confirm, then replace hardware.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s how a bench tech usually attacks this before ordering expensive parts.

  • 1. Pop the bottom cover and look.
    • Shut down. Unplug the charger.
    • Remove the pentalobe screws and lift the bottom cover carefully.
    • Locate the fans (usually one or two black round units near the back edge).
  • 2. Spin and clean the fan.
    • Gently flick the fan blades with a finger. They should spin freely and coast a bit.
    • If they feel sticky, gritty, or barely move, that alone can trigger a fault.
    • Use compressed air in short bursts from inside out (toward the vents), not the other way around.
    • Blow out dust from the fan, heatsink fins, and vents. Don’t let the fan overspin wildly with air; block it with a toothpick if needed.
  • 3. Reseat the fan connector.
    • Find the tiny cable from the fan going into the logic board.
    • Carefully pop it off, then snap it back on straight. A half-seated connector = bogus RPM readings and F111-style errors.
    • Check the cable for kinks or visible damage.
  • 4. Test with the cover off.
    • Reattach the charger, power on with the bottom cover still off (don’t touch anything metal).
    • Watch the fan: does it start spinning when the system warms up?
    • If it stays dead while the machine gets hot, that fan is most likely toast.
  • 5. Use software to double-check (optional, Intel only).
    • Install a fan control/monitor app (like Macs Fan Control or similar).
    • If the tool can’t read fan RPM or shows 0 RPM while the fan clearly spins, the sensor in the fan is bad.
    • If it never spins up even when commanded to max, either the fan or the board driver is gone.
  • 6. Tech’s call:
    • If the fan is stiff, noisy, or not reporting speed → replace the fan first. Cheap, common, and fixes most F111-style cases.
    • If a brand-new fan still won’t report RPM or spin correctly → logic board fault. That’s when costs jump.

This approach often clears the error with just a deep clean and a fan swap, instead of going straight to a full board replacement.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: MacBook Pro is 2018 or newer, otherwise healthy, and the issue tracks to a single bad fan — fan replacement is relatively cheap and absolutely worth it.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Mid-2015–2017 models, battery already worn, or you’re staring at a possible logic board repair — compare quotes to the price of a solid used or refurbished Mac.
  • ❌ Replace: Very old (pre-2015) machines, liquid damage, multiple faults (fan + board + battery) — don’t sink big money into it; move on to a newer Mac.

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