What This Error Means
F91 on a Ring Video Doorbell is a generic internal fault / boot failure situation, not a nicely documented customer-facing code.
Plain English: the doorbell powers up, runs its self-check, something fails, and the software refuses to fully start or stay online.
What you usually see:
- Doorbell shows in the app with an error or won’t complete setup.
- Light ring stuck on, flashing, or cycling, but Live View never loads.
- Device keeps going offline or feels like it’s endlessly rebooting.
From the field, this almost always comes down to one of two things: weak/unstable power to the doorbell, or a firmware / main-board problem inside the unit.
Official Fix
Here’s the “by the book” path Ring support will walk you through, minus the small talk.
- 1. Hard power cycle the doorbell.
- If it’s wired: flip the breaker that feeds the doorbell/off for 30 seconds, then back on.
- If it’s on a plug-in adapter: unplug the adapter for 30 seconds, then plug back in.
- Give the doorbell 2–3 minutes to fully boot before judging it.
- 2. Check that it actually has enough power.
- For wired units, Ring wants roughly a 16–24VAC transformer, 30VA or better.
- Open the Ring app > Device Health and look at the voltage/battery status.
- If voltage is reported as “very low”, “poor”, or the battery never charges: your transformer or wiring is suspect.
- 3. Rule out basic Wi‑Fi issues.
- Restart your router: pull power 30 seconds, plug back in, wait 3–5 minutes.
- Move the router a bit closer if it’s on the edge of range, or temporarily test with a phone hotspot to see if F91 still shows up.
- If the doorbell behaves fine on a strong temp Wi‑Fi, your regular network is part of the problem.
- 4. Do a proper factory reset on the Ring doorbell.
- With the unit powered, press and hold the setup button (usually on the side or back) for about 20 seconds.
- Release when the light ring flashes. That’s your full reset.
- Wait a minute, then put it back into setup mode (quick press of the setup button).
- 5. Remove and re-add the device in the Ring app.
- In the Ring app, go to Settings > Remove Device for that doorbell.
- Close the app, reopen it, and add the doorbell again as a new device.
- Let it sit connected for at least 10–15 minutes so any firmware update can finish quietly in the background.
- 6. If F91 (or the same behavior) sticks around, contact Ring support.
- At this point, you’ve done what they expect: power, network, reset, reinstall.
- They’ll usually check logs and, if they see repeated boot/self‑test failures, they treat it as a hardware issue.
- If you’re in or close to warranty, this often ends with a replacement unit.
The Technician’s Trick
Here’s how a field tech isolates F91 fast without guessing: take the house wiring out of the equation and bench‑power the doorbell.
- 1. Get a 24VAC plug‑in doorbell power supply.
- Any 16–24VAC plug‑in adapter rated at least 20–30VA and meant for doorbells is fine.
- This gives the doorbell clean, known‑good power, unlike an old sketchy transformer buried in a wall.
- 2. Disconnect the doorbell from the house wires.
- Kill power at the breaker first so you’re not playing with live doorbell wiring.
- Take the doorbell off its bracket and remove the two low‑voltage wires going to it.
- Cap or tape those house wires so they don’t short on anything while you test.
- 3. Hook it to the plug‑in power supply.
- Connect the two leads from the plug‑in adapter to the two terminals on the back of the Ring doorbell.
- Polarity doesn’t matter on these low‑voltage AC lines.
- Mount it somewhere safe indoors or just hold it on a table for testing.
- 4. Power it up and watch.
- Plug the adapter into a standard outlet.
- Let the doorbell fully boot, reset it, and add it to the Ring app again if needed.
- Run Live View a few times and leave it powered for 10–15 minutes.
- 5. Read the result:
- Works fine on the plug‑in supply, no F91 behavior: your old transformer or house wiring is bad. Replace the transformer or stay on the plug‑in adapter.
- Still glitchy or showing errors even on clean power: the doorbell’s internals are shot. No amount of rewiring will fix that; you’re looking at replacement.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Doorbell is under ~3–4 years old, casing is clean/dry, and F91 only shows after power drops or on an obviously weak transformer. Swapping a transformer or using a plug‑in adapter is cheap and worth it.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Older first‑gen Ring, out of warranty, intermittent F91‑type behavior, or you’d need an electrician just to reach the transformer. Compare the electrician’s quote to the price of a brand‑new Ring before you commit.
- ❌ Replace: You see corrosion, water marks, cracked housing, or the unit still misbehaves on a known‑good plug‑in power supply after a full reset and reinstall. At that point the board is done; put the money toward a new doorbell.
Parts You Might Need
- 16–24VAC doorbell transformer (30VA or higher for wired Ring models) – Find 16–24VAC doorbell transformer on Amazon
- 24VAC plug‑in doorbell power supply / Ring‑style plug‑in adapter – Find plug‑in doorbell power supply on Amazon
- Weatherproof low‑voltage wire connectors (for cleaning up old splices) – Find doorbell wire connectors on Amazon
- 18AWG doorbell wire (for rerunning short or damaged runs) – Find 18AWG doorbell wire on Amazon
- Precision screwdriver set with Torx bits (for brackets and tight screws) – Find precision screwdriver set on Amazon
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