Keurig Coffee Maker F13 Fix (Error Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

F13 on a Keurig coffee maker = Internal Brew System Fault, usually a water flow, pressure, or temperature sensor problem.

Translation: the machine is not moving or heating water the way the control board expects, so it locks out to avoid damaging the heater or pump.

What you will usually see:

  • F13 on the screen and no brew.
  • A brief click or pump noise, then nothing comes out.
  • Problem often shows up right after a descale, a move, or running the tank dry.

Nine times out of ten it is a clogged needle or water path, or a pump that is air locked or getting weak. Worst case, the internal sensor or control board has failed.

Official Fix

This is basically what the manual and Keurig support expect you to do.

  • Unplug the brewer from the wall for at least 5 minutes. That hard resets the control board.
  • Remove the water reservoir, empty it, rinse it, and refill with fresh water up to the max line. Reseat it firmly so the float can move freely and the tank fully engages its contacts.
  • Take out any pod. Open and close the handle several times so the lid latch and pod sensors get a clean signal.
  • Use the Keurig needle cleaning tool if you have it. If not, unfold a paper clip and gently clear the small holes around the top needle and the exit needle in the bottom of the pod holder. Do not force it; you are just knocking out packed coffee.
  • Reassemble the pod holder, leave any pod out, and run a plain hot water brew at the smallest cup size. Listen for the pump. If it runs and water flows, run three to five more rinse cycles.
  • If the brewer runs but throws F13 again, run a full descale using proper descaling solution and the exact procedure for your model. Mineral scale in the heater or lines can trigger flow and temperature errors.
  • If F13 still comes back after a reset, needle clean, and full descale, the official answer is service or replacement. They do not expect you to open the machine.

The Technician’s Trick

What techs actually do when F13 keeps coming back but the machine still powers on and at least clicks or hums:

  • Burp the pump: Unplug it, pull the reservoir, flip the brewer upside down over a sink, and give the bottom five to ten firm slaps with your palm. Stand it back up, reinstall the tank with fresh water, plug in, and try a rinse brew with no pod.
  • Force flush the water path: With the brewer unplugged and the tank off, press a turkey baster or large syringe full of hot water against the tank inlet and force water in. You should see water push out through the pod head; this clears air locks and junk around the pump and check valve.
  • Deep needle clean: Remove the pod holder. Run a thin paper clip fully up through the bottom exit needle until you see it at the top, then move it gently to scrape coffee buildup. Rinse with hot water or a half vinegar, half water mix until the flow through the head looks solid.
  • Read the result: After all that, if you still get F13 but the pump sounds normal and you get hot water, the internal sensor or control board is likely bad. If the pump is silent, the pump itself is probably shot.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: F13 only started recently, the brewer is under about five years old, it still heats and tries to pump, and you are fine spending a little time cleaning or swapping cheap parts.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Machine is five to seven years old with heavy daily use, F13 returns after a full clean and descale, but you can get a pump or parts kit cheaply and you really like this exact model.
  • ❌ Replace: Brewer is older than seven years, stays on F13 with no pump noise, trips breakers, smells burnt, or shows random codes; control board or heater work will cost more than buying a new unit.

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