Bose QuietComfort Headphones F23 Fix (Error Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

F23 on Bose QuietComfort Headphones usually means an internal power/firmware fault.

In plain English: the headphones start to boot. They see a problem in the charging or control electronics. So they shut down or lock up instead of working normally.

Official Fix

Here’s the playbook Bose support will run you through. Do it in this order, don’t skip around.

  • 1. Power-cycle and wake the battery
    • Slide the power/Bluetooth switch OFF and leave it off for 30 seconds.
    • Plug the headphones into a known-good USB wall charger (not a laptop port, not a car socket).
    • Use a cable you know works with another device.
    • Let them charge 5–10 minutes, then try turning them on again.
  • 2. Try a clean charger + cable combo
    • Swap to a different USB cable.
    • Swap to a different 5 V wall adapter (at least 1–2 A output).
    • If F23 only happens on one charger, the charger is the problem, not the headphones.
  • 3. Soft reset the headphones
    • Turn the headphones off.
    • Wait 30 seconds.
    • Connect them to power for 5 seconds, then unplug.
    • Turn them back on and see if F23 is gone.
  • 4. Factory reset (clears paired devices and settings)
    • Open the Bose Music or Bose Connect app on your phone.
    • Forget or remove the headphones from the app and from your phone’s Bluetooth list.
    • Use the in-app option to restore factory settings for your QuietComfort model.
    • Re-pair the headphones and test again.
  • 5. Firmware update the official way
    • With the app open and headphones powered on, connect them over Bluetooth.
    • If the app offers a firmware update, run it. Keep the headphones close and still.
    • Let the update finish. Killing power mid-update is a common way to trigger F-codes like this.
  • 6. If F23 won’t clear
    • At this point, Bose treats it as a hardware fault. Usually battery, charging board, or main board.
    • If you’re in warranty, stop here and open a support case. They’ll repair or swap the unit.

The Technician's Trick

This is the stuff field techs actually try when the official script doesn’t cut it.

  • 1. Deep power drain reset
    • If the headphones will still power on at all, run them until they die completely. Music on, noise cancelling on.
    • Once they shut themselves off, leave them alone for another 30 minutes.
    • Then charge them from a proper wall charger for at least 2 hours before touching any buttons.
    • This can clear a stuck power-management fault that keeps throwing F23.
  • 2. Clean the USB-C or Micro-USB port properly
    • Turn the headphones off.
    • Use a wooden toothpick or plastic tool to gently lift lint out of the charging port.
    • Blow out dust with short bursts of dry air. Don’t jam a high-pressure can right up against it.
    • A half-blocked port can confuse the charge controller and trigger F23 even though it seems to “charge.”
  • 3. Force a wired firmware reload from a computer
    • On a laptop or desktop, install Bose’s updater tool. It’s what service centers use.
    • Connect the headphones over USB.
    • If the tool offers a reinstall or update, do it. Don’t touch the cable until it says done.
    • Wired updates are more stable than app or Bluetooth updates and can clear corrupted firmware behind F23.
  • 4. Power-on while plugged in
    • Plug the headphones into a wall charger.
    • While they’re plugged in, try turning them on and connecting to the app.
    • If they behave while on the charger but throw F23 as soon as you unplug, you’re looking at a weak or failing battery.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Headphones are under warranty or less than about 3 years old; F23 showed up after a bad update or sketchy cable; no signs of physical damage.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Out of warranty, but you like how they sound; only issue is F23 and a replacement battery or charge board should sort it.
  • ❌ Replace: Headband or yokes are cracked, cushions are trashed, plus F23 and no warranty; paying for a main board swap is too close to the cost of a new pair.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other F-series or smart-device error codes? These guides break them down the same way.