What This Error Means
F31 on Bose QuietComfort Headphones means a firmware / internal control fault during start-up or update.
In plain language: the headphones try to boot, hit a software glitch, and either won’t connect, won’t play right, or keep flashing and dropping out.
In plain language: the headphones try to boot, hit a software glitch, and either won’t connect, won’t play right, or keep flashing and dropping out.
Official Fix
- 1. Check the basics first.
– Make sure the headphones are dry, not just pulled out of the rain or gym bag.
– Look for obvious damage to the earcups, headband, and USB‑C port. - 2. Give it a proper charge.
– Turn the headphones off.
– Plug into a known-good USB‑C cable and a wall charger (not a weak laptop port).
– Let it sit at least 30 minutes. F31 often shows up when the battery is low and firmware can’t finish loading. - 3. Do the standard Bose reset.
– Turn the headphones off.
– Wait 30 seconds.
– Plug into USB power for about 5 seconds.
– Unplug the cable, wait a full 1 minute, then power them back on.
– Watch the LED: solid white / green is good, crazy flashing plus F31 is not. - 4. Clear the Bluetooth list and re-pair.
– On most QuietComfort models: slide or hold the Bluetooth / power control into the Bluetooth position for about 10 seconds until you hear the prompt that the list is cleared, or see the LED blink differently.
– On your phone, forget the Bose in Bluetooth settings.
– Reboot the phone.
– Open the Bose Music app, put the headphones in pairing mode, and add them fresh. - 5. Run the official firmware update.
– Open the Bose Music app with the headphones connected and stable.
– If it offers an update, do it. Leave the headphones and phone side by side. Don’t walk away, don’t toggle power, don’t answer calls on them mid‑update.
– Let the update finish completely. A half‑baked update is a classic way to get an F31. - 6. If F31 still shows, follow the manual’s last step.
– Power cycle again after the update: off, wait 30 seconds, on.
– If the Bose app still throws F31 or the headphones stay in a fault state, Bose’s official line is service only.
– At that point it’s usually a bad board, corrupted firmware that won’t reflash, or a dying battery pack. You’re into warranty claim or paid repair territory.
The Technician’s Trick
- 1. Force a deeper reset than the app tells you.
– Turn the headphones off.
– Plug them into a wall charger with a decent output (15–20W USB‑C brick, not a random USB port). Let them sit 10 minutes powered off while charging.
– With them still connected to power, hold the power / Bluetooth control longer than usual (20–30 seconds). Ignore the first beeps or lights; keep holding until the LEDs fully cycle or go dark, then release.
– Unplug, wait 1–2 minutes, then power on and try pairing again. - 2. Bypass the phone app and push firmware over USB.
– Use a data-capable USB‑C cable, not a bargain-bin charge-only lead.
– Plug the headphones into a computer, not a charger.
– Use Bose’s desktop/web updater to check for and install firmware. This route often grabs a fresh image even when the phone app chokes with F31.
– While it’s updating, do nothing else. No unplugging, no power flips. - 3. Clean the USB‑C port if charging is flaky.
– If the cable feels loose or charging LED cuts in and out, the port may be full of pocket lint.
– Gently pick debris out with a wooden toothpick. No metal tools.
– Hit it with a short blast of compressed air. Then re-try charging + reset + update. - 4. Quick hardware sanity check.
– Plug in the wired audio cable and play something from a phone or laptop.
– If they sound fine on the cable but throw F31 when wireless, the amps and speakers are alive. You’re chasing a firmware/Bluetooth problem, not total hardware death.
– If they’re dead even on the cable, or the LEDs never behave normally, you’re likely past DIY and into board/battery replacement land.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Under 3–4 years old, still holds a decent charge, F31 only shows after a bad update or random glitch, and a reset + firmware push brings it back or Bose offers a low-cost warranty repair.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Out of warranty, battery already fading, you rely on them daily, and Bose’s repair quote lands around 30–50% of a new QuietComfort or similar ANC set.
- ❌ Replace: No power or audio even on the cable, F31 survives every reset and firmware attempt, casing or headband is cracked, or Bose wants close to new-headphone money for a main-board/battery swap.
Parts You Might Need
- USB‑C charging & data cable (for Bose QuietComfort Headphones) – fixes a lot of “fake” F31 issues caused by bad cables.
Find USB‑C charging & data cable on Amazon - 20W USB‑C wall charger – for stable charging and reset procedures.
Find 20W USB‑C wall charger on Amazon - Replacement ear cushions / earpads (Bose QuietComfort series) – good time to swap if they’re peeling while you’re already fixing things.
Find replacement ear cushions on Amazon - 2.5mm to 3.5mm audio cable compatible with Bose QuietComfort – useful to test wired sound when Bluetooth is acting up.
Find Bose-compatible audio cable on Amazon - Replacement battery kit (Bose QuietComfort over-ear, model-specific) – only if you’re handy and the battery is clearly on its last legs.
Find replacement battery kit on Amazon
See also
Got other gadgets throwing F-codes or random errors? These guides might save you another headache: