What This Error Means
F23 in this context means an HDMI or HDCP communication fault between the Roku Streaming Stick and the TV or anything in the HDMI path.
Translation: the Roku is powered, but the TV is rejecting the video signal, so you get a black screen or an F23 style error instead of the Roku home screen.
This usually comes from weak power to the stick, a loose or fussy HDMI connection, or the TV being picky about resolution or copy protection on that port.
Important reality check: Roku itself does not publish an F23 code. If you see F23 on the TV screen or front panel while using Roku, that code is from the TV or receiver, but the trigger is almost always the HDMI handshake with the Roku.
Official Fix
Roku and TV manuals do not list F23 specifically, but their official guidance for HDMI or HDCP problems is basically this:
- Kill the power properly. Unplug the TV, the Roku Streaming Stick power, and any receiver or soundbar in the middle. Do not just use the remote.
- Pull the Roku out of the HDMI port. If you use the short HDMI extender, unplug that too.
- Wait at least 60 seconds. Let capacitors drain so the HDMI handshake fully resets.
- Power the Roku from the wall, not the TV USB port. Use a 5 V Roku rated power adaptor and its USB cable, straight into a wall outlet or good power strip.
- Reconnect the Roku to the TV HDMI port firmly. Make sure it is fully seated and not sagging. If you were using an extender, reseat both ends or remove it as a test.
- Turn the TV back on and set it to the exact HDMI input your Roku is on. Only then plug the Roku power back in so it boots into a fresh handshake.
- Once the Roku home screen appears and stays stable, go to Settings > System > System update > Check now and apply any updates.
- If the TV has options like HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color, HDMI UHD Color, or similar for that port, turn that feature off and test again. Some TVs overdrive that mode and break the handshake with sticks.
- Still seeing F23 on that input? Try a different HDMI port on the TV. Many sets have one flaky port while the others are fine.
- If F23 shows even with the Roku unplugged, or appears with other devices on the same port, the fault is in the TV or receiver. At that point, follow the TV manual for that F code or talk to TV service, not Roku support.
The Technician’s Trick
When the official power cycle dance does not stick, this is the kind of stuff a field tech actually does on site.
- Force a clean power up order
Unplug everything. Then plug in and power on in this order: TV first, wait until it is fully on and set to the right HDMI input, then plug in the Roku power last. This forces the TV to sit there ready and accept the first clean HDMI handshake from the stick. - Drop the Roku resolution a notch
If you can get a picture even briefly, go to Settings > Display type and manually set 1080p TV or even 720p instead of Auto detect or 4K. Many picky TVs throw codes like F23 only when negotiating 4K or odd refresh rates. A locked 1080p signal is much easier for older HDMI boards. - Turn off fancy refresh tricks
On the Roku go to Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Advanced display settings and disable auto adjust display refresh rate. That feature can make the TV renegotiate HDMI every time an app changes frame rate, which is where some sets spit out F23. - Use the hidden restart and cache clear
If the Roku feels glitchy, use the remote combo: press Home 5 times, Up once, Rewind twice, then Fast Forward twice. Wait. The Roku will clear cache and reboot. This often cleans up weird HDMI behavior without a full factory reset. - Cool the stick down
If the Streaming Stick sits right behind a hot TV, it can overheat and drop HDMI. Use a short HDMI extender to hang it below or to the side of the TV where it gets airflow. Overheating can trigger random HDMI or HDCP errors that look like F23. - Bypass the problem gear
If you go Roku → receiver → TV, connect Roku straight to the TV as a test. If F23 vanishes, the receiver or soundbar HDMI board is the weak link. Leave the stick on the TV and send audio back via ARC or optical if needed.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: The Roku works fine on another TV, or your TV works fine on another HDMI port; this is just a handshake quirk or power issue you can solve with better power and port choices.
- ⚠️ Debatable: F23 keeps coming back on one aging TV, and fixing it means paying a shop to open the TV or receiver just for HDMI board work.
- ❌ Replace: The Roku still glitches on multiple TVs with good power, or several HDMI ports are dead on the TV; at that point a new streaming stick or even a new TV is cheaper than serious board repair.
Parts You Might Need
- Roku compatible 5 V power adaptor and USB cable
Find Roku compatible power adapter on Amazon - Short HDMI extender for Roku Streaming Stick (for better fit and cooling)
Find HDMI extender for Roku on Amazon - High speed HDMI cable (if you are actually using a Roku box instead of a stick)
Find high speed HDMI cable on Amazon - Replacement Roku remote (in case the current one is flaky and blocking proper resets)
Find Roku remote on Amazon - Powered HDMI switch or splitter (can sometimes clean up a weak HDMI signal between old TVs and modern sticks)
Find powered HDMI switch on Amazon - Replacement Roku Streaming Stick (if yours works on nothing and all the basics have failed)
Find Roku Streaming Stick on Amazon
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See also
Dealing with other F series or smart device error codes? These guides keep the guesswork down: