Roku Streaming Stick F24 Error Code Guide (Real Fix, Not Hype)

by

What This Error Means

F24 showing up while you’re using a Roku Streaming Stick is almost never a Roku error code. Roku’s own docs don’t list any “F” codes.

What it usually means: your TV (often an LG or another brand with F‑series service codes) is throwing its own F24 fault while you’re on the HDMI input that the Roku is using.

What’s actually happening in plain English: the TV is failing an internal video/power self‑test, so instead of showing the Roku picture it bails out and slaps “F24” on the screen.

The Roku stick is usually just the messenger, not the culprit.

Official Fix

Manufacturer playbook here is simple: isolate which box is bad, reset everything, then either replace a cheap part or call for TV service. Do this in order:

1. Prove whether it’s the Roku or the TV.

  • Unplug the Roku Stick (or its HDMI extender) from the TV.
  • Switch the TV to that same HDMI input with nothing plugged in.
  • Watch for a minute:
    • If F24 still pops up with nothing connected, it’s 100% the TV.
    • If F24 disappears, reconnect the Roku and keep going.
  • Now test the Roku on a different TV or monitor:
    • If the Roku works fine on another screen, your original TV is the problem.
    • If it shows problems on every screen, then the stick or its power is suspect.

2. Hard‑reset power to clear a false F24.

  • Unplug the TV from the wall. Not just standby. Pull the cord.
  • Unplug the Roku USB power cable from the TV or power brick.
  • On the TV, hold the power button (on the bezel or remote) for 20–30 seconds to bleed off charge.
  • Wait at least 5–10 minutes.
  • Plug the TV back in and power it up with no HDMI devices connected.
  • If there’s no F24, plug the Roku back in and select that HDMI input.

3. Fix the HDMI path.

  • If your Roku uses an HDMI cable or extender, swap it for a known‑good high‑speed HDMI cable.
  • Try a different HDMI port on the TV.
  • If you were powering the Roku from the TV’s USB port, move it to a proper wall adapter rated 5V / 1A or higher.
  • Make sure the Roku Stick isn’t half‑hanging or wiggling in the port; use the HDMI extender to take strain off the socket.

4. Drop the video load (if you can get a picture briefly).

  • On the Roku: Settings > Display type.
  • Change from “Auto detect” or 4K/HDR down to plain 1080p.
  • Turn off any “auto refresh rate” / “match frame rate” option in Roku’s Advanced display settings.
  • This reduces HDMI bandwidth and sometimes stops borderline TVs from tripping their own F‑codes.

5. Update firmware once it’s stable.

  • On the TV, run a software/firmware update from its settings menu.
  • On the Roku: Settings > System > System update > Check now.
  • Out‑of‑date HDMI/HDCP and panel control firmware can trigger bogus error codes under 4K/HDR loads.

6. When the manual basically says “call for service”.

  • If F24 appears on the TV even with no HDMI devices plugged in, it’s an internal TV fault (panel, power rail, or main board).
  • If your Roku works on other TVs but this one TV constantly throws F24, contact the TV manufacturer or a local TV repair shop.
  • Be ready: on some LG‑style OLED sets, F‑series codes often end with a main board or panel replacement.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: F24 vanishes after changing HDMI cable/port, using a wall power adapter for the Roku, or doing a hard power reset; or your TV is still under warranty.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Mid‑range TV, 3–6 years old, out of warranty; quote for a main‑board repair lands in the $150–$300 range and the screen itself is still perfect.
  • ❌ Replace: TV is 6+ years old, has burn‑in or dark patches, or a shop quotes panel replacement or a $300+ repair; at that point, keep the Roku and put the money into a new TV.

Parts You Might Need

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

See also

Chasing other “F” codes or smart‑device glitches? These guides break down similar problems: