Roku Streaming Stick F31 Error Code Fix

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What This Error Means

Quick definition: F31 on a Roku Streaming Stick is a network / connection fault code that usually means the stick can’t hold a stable Wi‑Fi link.

The Roku is powered on and trying to stream, but the data keeps dropping, so apps buffer, time out, or refuse to open.

Roku doesn’t officially publish an F31 code in user manuals, but in real-world service calls this almost always tracks back to weak Wi‑Fi signal, interference, bad power from the TV’s USB port, or a flaky router.

Official Fix

Do the basic manual steps first. In order. Don’t skip around.

  • 1. Power-cycle everything cleanly.
    • Unplug the Roku Stick from its USB power and from the HDMI port.
    • Unplug your router and modem from power.
    • Wait a full 60 seconds. Not ten. A full minute.
    • Plug the modem back in. Wait until all lights settle.
    • Plug the router back in. Wait until Wi‑Fi lights are solid.
    • Now plug the Roku back into HDMI and power. Let it boot to the home screen.
  • 2. Confirm your internet isn’t the actual problem.
    • On a phone or laptop on the same Wi‑Fi, run a speed test.
    • If you see very low speeds, big swings, or “no internet,” the line or ISP is the issue. Fix that first or the Roku will keep throwing errors.
  • 3. Check Wi‑Fi signal strength on the Roku.
    • On the Roku: go to Settings > Network > Check connection.
    • Let it test both network and internet.
    • If it says “Poor” or fails, the stick isn’t getting a clean signal. Move the router closer, get it out from behind thick walls, or reduce distance.
    • A Roku buried behind the TV, metal mount, or inside a cabinet is a Wi‑Fi killer. Open it up if you can.
  • 4. Forget and re-add your wireless network.
    • Go to Settings > Network > Set up connection > Wireless.
    • Select your Wi‑Fi name and choose to forget it if that option shows.
    • Then select it again and type the password carefully.
    • Wrong or outdated passwords cause the same symptoms as F31. Double-check every character.
  • 5. Run a Network Connection Reset on the Roku.
    • Go to Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Network connection reset.
    • Select Reset connection. The Roku will reboot.
    • After reboot, go back to Settings > Network and set up Wi‑Fi from scratch again.
  • 6. Check for Roku system updates once it’s online.
    • Go to Settings > System > System update > Check now.
    • Install any update it finds. Let it reboot if it wants.
    • Outdated firmware can be touchy with certain routers or security settings.
  • 7. Last official step: full factory reset.
    • On the menu: Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Factory reset.
    • Or press and hold the reset button / pinhole on the stick for 20–30 seconds until the Roku logo appears.
    • This wipes everything. You’ll sign back into all channels. Only do this if all the earlier network tests still fail.

The Technician’s Trick

Field reality: F31-style failures are usually weak power or interference, not “bad apps.” Here’s what working techs actually do.

  • 1. Stop powering the stick from the TV’s USB port.
    • Plug the Roku into the original Roku wall adapter, or a known-good 5V 1A (or higher) USB power brick.
    • TV USB ports drop voltage when the TV changes brightness or input. That causes reboots, freezes, and connection drops that look like F31.
  • 2. Move the stick away from the TV with an HDMI extender.
    • Use a short HDMI extender cable to pull the Roku a few inches away from the back of the TV.
    • Big screens, metal mounts, and tight spaces block Wi‑Fi and add radio noise.
    • Even a 4–6 inch move can jump signal strength from “Poor” to “Good” and kill the error.
  • 3. Use a phone hotspot as a hard test.
    • Turn on the mobile hotspot on your phone.
    • On the Roku, connect to that hotspot instead of your home Wi‑Fi.
    • If streaming works fine on the hotspot, the stick is OK. Your home router or Wi‑Fi settings are the problem.
    • If it still fails and throws F31-type errors, the Roku itself or its power feed is suspect.
  • 4. Tame the router channels.
    • Log into your router.
    • On 2.4 GHz, set the channel to 1, 6, or 11. Don’t leave it on “auto hop” if the neighborhood is crowded.
    • On 5 GHz, use channels in the 36–48 range. Avoid DFS and exotic channels that some Roku models hate.
    • Reboot the router after changes. Then run Settings > Network > Check connection again on the Roku.
  • 5. Check for heat.
    • Touch the Roku. If it’s really hot or you’ve seen an “overheating” warning, that alone can wreck the Wi‑Fi radio.
    • Unplug power and let it cool 10–15 minutes.
    • Re-mount it so it has airflow and isn’t pressed tight against the TV or inside a closed cabinet.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: The stick is under about 4–5 years old, works fine on a phone hotspot, or stabilizes once you change power source or router settings – keep it and sort the network or power; that’s a cheap, solid win.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: You’ve tried a new power adapter, HDMI extender, and router tweaks, but F31-style drops still pop up a few times a week – it might be time to weigh your time against the low cost of a new streaming stick.
  • ❌ Replace: The Roku fails network tests on multiple known-good Wi‑Fi networks and power bricks, even after a factory reset – that usually means a dying Wi‑Fi radio; replacing the stick is cheaper than any real repair.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Still getting hammered by other devices with weird F-codes or network errors? These no-nonsense guides might save you more time: