Maytag Dishwasher F11 Fix: Straight-To-The-Point Guide

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What This Error Means

F11 on a Maytag dishwasher means a wash/circulation motor electrical fault.

The control board tries to run the main pump but sees a bad signal or no movement, so it kills the cycle and throws F11.

Official Fix

Here’s the straight-up, by-the-book path:

  • Kill power first. Flip the dishwasher breaker off. Do not just push Cancel.
  • Wait 1–2 minutes, then turn the breaker back on and try a quick cycle. If F11 comes back, it’s a real fault, not a glitch.
  • Pull the lower toe-kick panel off. Slide the machine out a few inches so you can see underneath.
  • Find the circulation pump on the bottom center of the sump (bigger motor, not the tiny drain pump). Check for burned smell, melted plastic, or obvious leaks on it.
  • Follow the wiring harness from the control board down to the circulation pump. Look for burnt spots, cracked insulation, or loose connectors. Reseat any plug that doesn’t feel solid.
  • With power OFF, unplug the pump connector and check the pump windings with a multimeter for continuity. No continuity or a dead short = bad pump.
  • If the pump is open/shorted, seized, or just buzzes and never moves water, replace the circulation pump or full sump-and-motor assembly (what Maytag usually sells).
  • If the pump tests good but never gets power when the unit tries to wash, the control board is likely bad. Replace the electronic control board.
  • After parts are replaced, run the built-in diagnostic cycle (if your model has it) to clear stored errors and confirm F11 is gone.

If you are not comfortable testing live 120V at the pump, stop at the visual checks and call a pro. No joke there.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s what a field tech tries before ordering expensive parts:

  • Power off at the breaker. Safety first, or you’ll regret it.
  • With the toe-kick off, reach the circulation pump. On many models you can reach the impeller or shaft from below or through the sump once the filter is out.
  • Manually spin the impeller or shaft. If it’s stuck and then suddenly frees up, that was your problem: mineral crud or gunk locking the motor.
  • Check inside the sump for broken glass, hard seeds, or plastic wrapped around the impeller. Clear anything you find. Even a small shard can stall the motor and trigger F11.
  • Unplug the pump connector and plug it back in firmly. Do the same at the control board in the door. Half-seated connectors cause a ton of F11 calls.
  • Turn the breaker back on. Run a normal cycle with the kick plate still off so you can listen. If the pump starts moving water again, you just fixed F11 with elbow grease, not parts.
  • If it runs but makes nasty grinding or squealing noises, it’ll come back. Plan on a new pump/sump, just not at 9 p.m. tonight.

This “unstick and reseat” move saves a lot of dishwashers that dealers would’ve written off as needing a full motor and control.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Under ~10 years old, stainless tub, otherwise runs fine, and it only needs a circulation pump or harness.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Older basic model that needs both pump and control board, or you’re paying full shop labor plus trip charges.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub or door is rusting, racks are shot, it has leaks or other codes on top of F11, or the repair quote is over half the cost of a solid new mid-range unit.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other appliance error codes around the house? These guides help decode the nonsense: