Maytag Dishwasher F13 Fix (Error Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

F13 on most modern Maytag dishwashers (Whirlpool-built) means: water softener / regeneration system fault.

Translation: the control board thinks the water-hardness sensor or softener valve is not behaving, so it stops the wash to protect itself and your dishes.

Exact wording in the tech sheet may vary by model, but if you see F13 and the machine quits, the problem is almost always in that softener / regeneration circuit.

Official Fix

Here is the straight, by-the-book path Maytag expects before you call a tech:

  • 1. Power reset. Open the door, shut off the breaker or unplug for 1 minute, restore power, run a short cycle. If F13 stays gone, you are done.
  • 2. Check water supply. Make sure the water shutoff under the sink is fully open and the supply hose to the dishwasher is not kinked or crushed.
  • 3. Look for leaks. Pull the toe-kick. If the base pan is full of water, stop and call a pro; something is leaking and tripping protection.
  • 4. Inspect the softener wiring. With power off, find the small valve / sensor block on or near the softener housing by the sump. Reseat any loose plugs and look for obvious damaged wires.
  • 5. Manufacturer fix. If F13 still returns, the official fix is: replace the water-softener sensor / regeneration valve assembly; if that does not cure it, replace the main control board.

That is the official tree: reset, water supply, wiring, then parts.

The Technician’s Trick

What the manual does not tell you: F13 is often a control tantrum, not a dead part. A forced diagnostic run can clear a bogus F13 or free a sticky softener valve.

  • 1. Empty the tub. No dishes, no soap. Close the door, power on, but do not start a cycle.
  • 2. Force diagnostics. On many Maytag / Whirlpool units, press: Heated Dry > Normal > Heated Dry > Normal within about 6 seconds. Lights should all come on or a test should start. If you do not have those buttons, skip this instead of guessing.
  • 3. Let it run. Do not touch it. The test cycles pumps, valves, heater, and the regeneration system and can clear a confused control.
  • 4. Power-cycle and retest. When the test finishes, kill power at the breaker for 30 seconds, restore it, and run a normal wash. If F13 is gone, you are good.
  • 5. Tap the valve (last DIY). If F13 comes back, cut power, pull the toe-kick, find the small valve on the softener housing, and tap it a couple of times with a screwdriver handle. Restore power and test. If it still throws F13, plan on parts or a tech.

If you are not comfortable taking panels off or working near wiring, stop before step 5 and call someone; no shame in that.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under about 8–10 years old, stainless tub, F13 is the only issue, and you are likely looking at just a valve, sensor, or a single control board.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Machine is 10+ years, has already eaten a pump or heater, or needs both the regeneration assembly and the main board to get rid of F13.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub is rusted or cracked, multiple error codes are showing, or the repair quote comes in over half the price of a solid new dishwasher.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Dealing with other appliances throwing cryptic codes? These guides keep you out of the dark: