Apple MacBook Pro F104 Error Code Guide (Cooling / Fan Fault Fix)

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What This Error Means

F104 on a MacBook Pro is a cooling system / fan control fault.

In plain language: the Mac thinks the fan or its temperature sensor is not behaving, so it cranks the fans, throttles performance, or shuts off when things get warm.

Apple doesn’t publish “F104” for customers, but techs see this label on service tools and work orders when there’s a fan or thermal management failure.

Official Fix

Apple’s official answer is: confirm the fault, then replace hardware. No heroic board surgery.

  • 1. Back up immediately.
    • If it still boots, run Time Machine or clone the drive.
    • Thermal faults can turn into random shutdowns and data loss fast.
  • 2. Shut it down cleanly.
    • Power off the MacBook Pro.
    • Unplug the charger and anything else connected.
  • 3. Reset the power / thermal controller (SMC-style reset).
    • Intel MacBook Pro (2010–2020): With it fully shut down, hold Shift + Control + Option + Power on the left side for 10 seconds, then release and press Power again.
    • Apple silicon (M1/M2/M3): Shut it down. Leave it off 30 seconds. Power it back on. Power management resets automatically.
  • 4. Run Apple Diagnostics.
    • With the Mac off, press Power and immediately hold D.
    • Let the test finish. Note any reference code it gives you.
    • If it still reports a cooling or fan-related error (what repair systems summarize as F104), Apple classifies it as a hardware fault.
  • 5. Official repair path.
    • Book a Genius Bar or authorized service provider.
    • They re-run diagnostics and then usually:
      • Replace the fan assembly, and/or
      • Replace the logic board if the fan driver circuit or temp sensor line is bad.
    • Under warranty / AppleCare: Typically covered, you just wait.
    • Out of warranty: You pay parts + labor. They don’t repair the board; they swap whole modules.

That’s the official script: reset, test, then part replacement at an Apple shop.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s how a bench tech actually attacks an F104-style fault before signing you up for a $500–$800 board swap.

  • 1. Feel and listen first.
    • Power it up briefly.
    • If the fan instantly goes jet-engine loud and stays there, or never spins at all, that lines up with F104.
    • If it only freaks out under load (video, games), think heat buildup or bad paste.
  • 2. Check fan RPM in software (if macOS still boots).
    • Install a fan/temperature monitor like TG Pro or Macs Fan Control.
    • If fan RPM reads 0 but you clearly hear it, that points to a sensor/logic issue.
    • If RPM is 0 and it’s not spinning, that’s almost always a dead or jammed fan.
  • 3. Open it up and de-gunk it. (Only if out of warranty. Opening it can void coverage.)
    • Use a P5 pentalobe driver to pull the bottom cover.
    • Blow out dust from the fan and exhaust vent with compressed air (short bursts, hold the fan still with a finger so you don’t overspin it).
    • Brush the heatsink fins and vent grille. Packed dust alone can trigger thermal panic and F104-style behavior.
  • 4. Reseat and test the fan.
    • Unplug the fan connector from the logic board, then plug it back in firmly.
    • Spin the fan by hand. It should move freely, no grinding or stiff spots.
    • If it feels rough, just plan on a new fan. They’re cheap compared to a logic board.
  • 5. Repaste if temps are crazy but fan works.
    • If temps spike over 90–100°C fast, but the fan is clearly running, the thermal paste may be cooked.
    • Remove the heatsink, clean the old paste with isopropyl alcohol, apply fresh thermal paste, and reinstall.
  • 6. Replace the fan before you ever agree to a board.
    • New fan in, reassemble, then do another SMC-style reset and run Apple Diagnostics again.
    • If the F104-style fault disappears, you just dodged a massive logic-board bill.
    • If it stays, then you start talking about board replacement or retirement.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: 2016 or newer MacBook Pro in good shape, especially 15″/16″ or M1/M2 models; a fan swap or basic thermal work is cheap versus the value of the machine.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 2013–2015 models, or any unit where the quote includes a logic board; fix only if you need specific ports/specs and the total is under ~50% of a solid used replacement.
  • ❌ Replace: 2012-and-older, liquid-damaged boards, or any repair quote that’s pushing new base-MacBook money; pull your data and put the cash toward a newer machine.

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