What This Error Means
F11 means airflow / motor overload fault.
On Dyson vacuums that show an F11 code, the brain thinks the motor is working too hard to pull air because something is blocked or the filters are choking it, so it cuts power to protect itself.
Exact wording varies by model, but the story is the same: restricted airflow, rising motor temperature, and the machine throws F11 instead of burning out.
Official Fix
Do all of this with the machine off and unplugged, or the battery removed.
- 1. Power-cycle it the boring way
Unplug / pull the battery. Leave it 2–3 minutes. Plug the cord back in or refit the battery, then try a quick run. If F11 comes straight back, keep going below. - 2. Empty the bin properly
Pop the bin off if your model allows it. Dump everything. Tap the bin walls and cyclone pack gently over a trash can to knock out packed dust. Refit it so it positively clicks in. - 3. Hunt for blockages, front to back
- Pull the floor head off. Look down the neck for hair clumps or objects.
- Check the brush bar: cut away hair, thread, string from both ends.
- Remove the wand/tube. Look through it at a light. Any dark ring = blockage.
- Check the main body inlet where the wand locks in. Coins, Lego, and gravel love to sit there.
- 4. Clean or replace the filters
- Find all filters (usually a pre-motor filter and sometimes a post-motor/HEPA filter).
- If your manual says they’re washable: rinse in cold water only. No soap, no hot water.
- Squeeze out excess water and let them dry completely for at least 24 hours. Damp filter = instant F11 again.
- If they’re non-washable or falling apart, don’t wash them. Replace them.
- 5. Check seals and joints
Make sure the bin, cyclone, wand, and floor head all lock in solidly. A bad seal can make the sensor think it’s blocked because the vacuum pulls weird pressure readings. - 6. Let the motor cool down
If it shut off mid-clean and threw F11, park it for 30–60 minutes so the thermal protection resets. Don’t rush it; hot motor = repeat fault. - 7. Test it under load
Reassemble everything. Run it with the floor head on the carpet for 30–60 seconds. If it runs fine and doesn’t flash F11, you’re done. If F11 comes back after all that, you’re likely looking at a failing motor, PCB, or tired battery (cordless).
The Technician’s Trick
When the official steps “do nothing” and F11 still pops up, here’s what techs actually do in the field.
- 1. Hard reset the electronics (cordless)
- Remove the battery.
- Hold the trigger/power button for 10–15 seconds to bleed off any charge.
- Leave it sitting for 5 minutes.
- Reinstall the battery firmly and try again. This clears some stubborn latched faults.
- 2. Back-flush the airflow path
Fine dust cakes inside the cyclone pack and passages where you can’t see it. Dyson doesn’t tell you to do this, but techs do:- Remove filters and the bin.
- Use another vacuum or gentle compressed air on low pressure.
- Blow backwards through the wand, then the main inlet, to push dust out the way it came in.
- Avoid blasting directly into the motor vents; you don’t want to force dust into the bearings.
This often clears invisible clogs that still trip F11 even when everything “looks clean”.
- 3. Inspect the brush head as if it’s guilty
- Pop the brush bar out fully if your head allows it.
- Check the end caps for wrapped hair or melted plastic.
- Spin the bar by hand. Any grinding, stiffness, or “notchy” feel can spike the load and trigger F11.
- If the head stalls easily, replace the head or brush bar assembly. No amount of cleaning fixes a cooked bearing.
- 4. Rule out the battery (cordless)
If it runs fine on low power but instantly throws F11 or cuts out on high, the battery may sag under load.- Try a known-good battery if you can borrow one.
- If the fault disappears with a different battery, yours is tired, not the motor.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Machine is under ~5–6 years old, only needs filters, a brush head clean, or a fresh battery; no burning smell, no grinding noises.
- ⚠️ Debatable: F11 appears with a weak battery and a noisy or hot-running motor; repair cost is creeping toward half the price of a similar new Dyson.
- ❌ Replace: Motor screams, smells burnt, or blows F11 within seconds even after filter/brush/battery work; quoted motor/PCB repair is near or above the cost of a new mid-range vacuum.
Parts You Might Need
- Pre-motor filter – if it’s torn, missing, or permanently clogged. Find Pre-motor filter on Amazon
- Post-motor / HEPA filter – if airflow still feels choked after cleaning. Find HEPA filter on Amazon
- Brush bar or complete cleaner head – if the roller is stiff, noisy, or keeps stalling. Find Brush head on Amazon
- Wand / hose assembly – if you find a crushed, cracked, or kinked section that keeps blocking. Find Wand / hose on Amazon
- Replacement battery (for cordless models) – if runtime is short and F11 hits on high power. Find Replacement battery on Amazon
- Bin / cyclone assembly – if it’s cracked, warped, or leaking dust at the seals. Find Bin / cyclone assembly on Amazon
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