What This Error Means
F13 on a Dyson vacuum is a motor temperature / airflow fault.
The machine thinks it is overheating because air is restricted or the temperature sensor at the motor is reading out of range, so it cuts power to protect the motor.
On most models this is triggered by heavy blockages, filthy filters, or a failing motor sensor; the display text may vary a bit by model, but the idea is the same.
Official Fix
Here is the straight factory playbook before any surgery:
- Switch the vacuum off and remove it from the charger or wall power. Let it sit at least 30–60 minutes to cool if it just cut out.
- Empty the bin completely. Tap the bin and cyclone section over a trash can to knock out packed fine dust.
- Strip the airflow path:
- Remove the wand or hose.
- Take off the floor head / cleaner head.
- If your model has it, remove the short hose between the body and the cleaner head.
- Hunt blockages the boring way:
- Look through the wand or hose against a light. If you cannot see clear through, there is a clog. Push it out with a broom handle or similar, do not stab it with anything sharp.
- Check the cleaner head intake and side channels for socks, toys, or packed hair.
- Look into the bin inlet and the small ports around the cyclone for wads of dust.
- Deal with the brush bar:
- Remove the brush bar using the coin screw or latch, depending on model.
- Cut away hair and thread from the ends and the bristles. Do not slice into the bristles themselves.
- Spin the bar in your fingers. It should turn freely, no grinding or sticking.
- Clean the filter exactly how Dyson says:
- Remove the main filter (usually the purple cone or cylinder) and any rear HEPA filter your model has.
- Rinse under cold running water only. No soap, no hot water, no washing machine.
- Squeeze out excess water and repeat until the water runs clear.
- Air-dry for a full 24 hours minimum. Needs to be bone dry, not just “mostly”.
- While filters dry, blow or brush dust off:
- Motor air inlets around the cyclone shroud.
- Exhaust grills at the rear or sides of the machine.
- Once everything is dry, refit the filters firmly. If the filter is loose, the F13 fault can pop right back.
- Rebuild the machine: wand back on, cleaner head back on, brush bar locked in, all clicks seated properly.
- Charge the vacuum fully. Many Dysons will still show the fault if the battery is low after an overheat event.
- Test it:
- Run it without attachments for 30–60 seconds.
- Then run with the cleaner head on a clear floor.
- If it runs normally with no F13 and no cut-out, you are done.
If F13 returns immediately after all this, the official line is that you have a hardware fault: usually a bad motor, a faulty temperature sensor, or a damaged main PCB. At that point Dyson will quote you for an out-of-warranty repair or a replacement machine.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: F13 goes away after cleaning, or Dyson offers a reasonably priced motor or PCB repair on a vacuum under about 5–6 years old.
- ⚠️ Debatable: The vacuum is 5–8 years old, needs both a battery and a motor or head assembly, or the repair quote is more than about half the price of a similar new Dyson.
- ❌ Replace: The shell is cracked, motor screams or smells burnt, or Dyson wants near-new price to fix an older unit; put that money into a new vacuum instead.
Parts You Might Need
- Pre-motor filter – Find Pre-motor filter on Amazon
- Post-motor / HEPA exhaust filter – Find Post-motor / HEPA exhaust filter on Amazon
- Main cleaner head / floor head assembly – Find Main cleaner head / floor head assembly on Amazon
- Brush bar / roller – Find Brush bar / roller on Amazon
- Battery pack – Find Battery pack on Amazon
- Motor / cyclone assembly (advanced repair) – Find Motor / cyclone assembly on Amazon
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