Frigidaire Oven F10 Error Code Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

F10 on a Frigidaire oven means runaway temperature.
The control board sees the temperature signal from the oven sensor go way higher than it should and panics, so it locks out the oven or keeps beeping.
Either the temperature sensor circuit is lying, or the board’s relay is stuck and actually cooking the oven too hot.
It is a safety shutdown, not a random glitch.

Official Fix

What Frigidaire basically tells you to do:

  • Kill power at the breaker. This is 240V. Do not just hit Cancel.
  • Let the oven cool fully inside. If it smelled super hot, crack the door and give it time.
  • Pull the range out from the wall or pull the wall oven enough to reach the back panel.
  • Remove the rear cover. Find the thin metal rod going into the oven cavity with two wires: that is the oven temperature sensor (RTD) and its harness.
  • Visually check the sensor, its wires, and the plug. Look for burnt spots, melted insulation, or loose/corroded connectors.
  • With a multimeter, measure resistance across the two sensor leads at room temperature. A good Frigidaire sensor is usually around 1050–1100 Ω at 70°F (about 1.0–1.1 kΩ).
  • If the sensor reads way off (very low, very high, open circuit, or jumping around), replace the sensor.
  • If the sensor reads normal at its plug, check the same resistance back at the control board connector. If it is not the same, repair or replace the harness/connector.
  • If the sensor and wiring both check good, the manual says to replace the electronic oven control (EOC) / clock board because its relay or input circuit is faulty.
  • While you are there, eyeball the bake and broil elements for visible damage, arcing, or cracks, and fix anything obvious.
  • Reassemble, restore power, and test: run Bake at 350°F and watch. The oven should heat, cycle on and off, and not throw F10.

That is the official flow: sensor first, wiring second, control board last.

The Technician’s Trick

Here is how a real tech separates bad sensor from bad board without guessing.

  • Start with a hard reset. Kill the breaker for 10–15 minutes, then power it back up.
    • If F10 comes back instantly at room temp, you almost never have a real overheat. It is usually sensor, wiring, or board logic.
    • If it only trips during or after a bake cycle, it might be heat-related wiring or a sensor that drifts when hot.
  • Fast sensor-vs-board check without wasting parts:
    • Kill power at the breaker.
    • Open the control area, unplug the oven sensor harness from the control board.
    • Turn power back on with the sensor unplugged and try to start Bake.
    • If the board now throws an open-sensor style code (often F30/F31 on Frigidaire) instead of F10, the board is clearly seeing the circuit change. That usually means the board is alive and the sensor/wiring were the problem.
    • If it still goes straight to F10 with the sensor disconnected, the control board is usually toast (stuck relay or bad input).
  • Clean the sensor connector instead of instantly replacing parts. With power off, unplug and plug that sensor connector several times. That scrapes oxidation off the pins. A dirty plug can make the board think the temperature is spiking.
  • When F10 only happens at high temps (like 450°F+):
    • Check the door gasket. If heat is blasting past a torn seal, the control area can cook and go stupid.
    • Make sure cooling/vent slots are not blocked by foil or pans.
    • As a temporary crutch while waiting on parts, you can calibrate the oven down -20°F to -35°F so it does not push as hard. Do not treat this as a permanent fix if it has truly run away hot.
  • Double-check the elements for shorts. With power off, pull at least one wire off each element and ohm them to chassis. A grounded element can drive temps up fast and confuse the control into F10.

Field rule: prove the sensor circuit bad before buying a board, and prove the board bad before blaming the elements.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Oven under about 10 years old, cabinet and glass are in good shape, and F10 is the only real symptom. A sensor and even a control board are usually cheaper than a new range.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 10–15 years old, you already have weaker burners or door issues, and the EOC price plus labor creeps toward half the cost of a new basic unit.
  • ❌ Replace: Over 15 years, parts are discontinued or pricey, the oven has overheated badly (warped racks, discolored liner), or you are stacking F10 on top of other failures.

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