Garmin Forerunner F20 Fix (Whirlpool Washer F20 Error Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

On Whirlpool front-load washers, error code F20 means No Water Detected or Water Inlet Problem.

If you searched for Garmin Forerunner F20 by mistake, this F20 is a Whirlpool washer code about water, not your watch.

Translation: the control board thinks the tub is not filling with water fast enough, so it shuts things down and throws F20.

Usually it’s not the brain of the machine; it’s water supply, clogged screens, a sticky inlet valve, or the water level system lying to the board.

Official Fix

Here is the straight factory playbook for F20:

  • Unplug the washer first. No power while you work.
  • Make sure both hot and cold water supply valves at the wall are fully open. Check another sink to confirm you actually have good water pressure in the house.
  • Slide the washer out. Inspect both fill hoses for kinks, crushing, or signs of freezing. Straighten or thaw as needed.
  • Shut off the valves, then remove the hoses from the back of the washer. Inside the valve ports you will see small mesh screens. Clean out grit, sand, and gunk with a small brush and rinse. Do not poke holes in the screens.
  • Before reconnecting, briefly open each wall valve into a bucket to blast out any debris in the plumbing, then reconnect hoses firmly.
  • Check the drain hose height. It should usually be between about 39 and 96 inches off the floor and not taped airtight into the standpipe. If it is too low or sealed tight, the washer can siphon out as it fills and the control thinks there is no water.
  • Plug the washer back in. Run a small load or rinse and spin and watch the fill. If the tub fills within a few minutes and no F20 comes back, you are done.
  • If F20 returns even after good supply, clean screens, and correct drain hose height, the official next step is service: Whirlpool expects a tech to test and replace the water inlet valve and, if needed, the water level / pressure switch.

The Technician's Trick

What we actually do in the field when F20 keeps coming back:

  • Unplug the washer and turn off both water valves.
  • Pop the top panel: remove the screws at the back edge, slide the top back a bit, and lift it off.
  • Find the thin rubber pressure hose running from the side or bottom of the tub up to a small round switch or sensor on the frame. Pull it off at the switch end.
  • Blow gently through the hose toward the tub. It should blow clear and you should hear bubbles in the tub or air dome. If it feels blocked, the air dome on the tub side is packed with sludge. Work the hose a bit, and if you can reach the tub end, clean that fitting out with a small brush or pipe cleaner.
  • If the hose is cracked, loose, or has pinholes, replace it. Any air leak makes the board think there is no water even when the tub is full.
  • With the hoses still off the washer, aim them into a bucket and briefly open the wall valves. You are checking that house pressure is strong and steady. Weak flow here means call a plumber, not a washer tech.
  • Strong flow at the valves but slow or no fill in the washer after all that? The inlet valve itself is usually the culprit. A quick check: if F20 only happens on hot, swap the hot and cold hoses on the back of the washer and run a warm cycle. If the code moves to the other temperature, that side of the inlet valve is bad.
  • If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, unplug the washer, pull the connectors off each inlet valve coil, and ohm them out. An open coil or one reading totally different from the others means replace the valve assembly.
  • In stubborn repeat F20 cases, pros normally do three things in one visit: clean or replace the pressure hose, install a new inlet valve, and, if the pressure switch tests out of spec, replace that too. Only after that do we blame the control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Washer is under about 8–10 years old, no bearing roar or leaks, and you only need hoses, an inlet valve, or a pressure switch to clear F20.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Machine is 8–12 years old, heavily used, has had other error codes, or needs several parts at once; compare total repair cost to a new mid-range washer.
  • ❌ Replace: Washer is over 10–12 years old, has loud spin, moldy tub, repeated control issues, and now F20 on top; do not sink major money into inlet and control parts.

Parts You Might Need

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