What This Error Means
On most GE electronic ovens and ranges, F22 means a keypad / touch panel fault (stuck key, shorted key, or keypad not talking right to the control board).
Translation: the control board thinks a button is jammed or the touch panel is electrically messed up, so it locks out normal operation to avoid runaway heating.
Official Fix
What the manual basically wants you to do:
- Kill the power:
- Flip the range/oven breaker OFF (or unplug it) for at least 1 full minute.
- This hard-resets the control. Don’t just hit the Cancel/Clear key; that’s not enough.
- Restore power:
- Turn the breaker back ON.
- Watch the display while the oven boots up.
- If the panel comes up normal, try a low-temp bake (like 300°F) and make sure all keys respond.
- If F22 comes back right away (or some keys don’t work):
- The official playbook says the touch panel/keypad is bad, or the control board is bad.
- GE’s own service docs: disconnect power, then replace the keypad/touch panel first on most models.
- If a new keypad doesn’t fix it, replace the main control board (ERC/clock).
- If F22 only shows when you press certain buttons:
- Manual logic is the same: the key matrix for those buttons is failing.
- Fix is to replace the whole touch panel or front control assembly, depending on how your model is built.
- When the manual says “Call for service”:
- They mean: don’t keep cycling power forever.
- If F22 returns after one hard reset, they expect a pro to come out with the right keypad/control part and swap it.
Safety note: you’re dealing with 240V. Any time you’re touching screws, panels, or wiring, breaker must be OFF.
The Technician’s Trick
Here’s what a field tech actually tries before ordering pricey parts.
- 1. Power off and get behind the panel
- Turn the breaker OFF and verify the display is dead.
- Pull the range out a few inches or open the cabinet above a wall oven.
- Remove the back cover or top trim behind the control panel (usually a handful of screws).
- 2. Reseat the keypad ribbon cable
- Find the flat ribbon cable that runs from the touch panel/keypad to the main control board.
- Carefully unplug that ribbon from the board (no yanking; rock it out straight).
- Inspect for grease, corrosion, or dark/burned spots on the contacts.
- Plug it back in firmly. Pull it out and reseat it 2–3 times to wipe oxidation off the contacts.
- 3. Check for moisture or spill damage
- If you recently boiled over a pot or had steam blasting the controls, moisture can fake a stuck key and trigger F22.
- Look for signs of droplets or sticky residue on the back of the panel and board.
- Dry it out: leave the panel open for an hour, or use a hair dryer on low heat, a foot away, for 10–15 minutes. Don’t cook the plastic.
- 4. Clean the ribbon contacts (only if they’re dirty)
- If the ribbon contacts look greasy or oxidized, lightly wipe the exposed contacts with a cotton swab and 90%+ isopropyl alcohol.
- Let everything dry completely before powering back up.
- 5. Button test
- Reassemble the covers loosely, restore power at the breaker.
- If the oven powers up clean with no F22, press every key one by one.
- If a specific button brings back F22 or doesn’t respond, the keypad/touch panel is toast. Replace that part only.
- If F22 pops without touching anything, even after reseating, the control board is the main suspect.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Oven under ~10–12 years old, cabinet and glass are solid, and you’re looking at just a keypad or UI board (typically under $250 in parts).
- ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 12–15 years old, already has other issues (weak burners, bad door seal), and the quote lands around $300–$450.
- ❌ Replace: Oven 15+ years, rusted or damaged, or needs both keypad and main control with labor pushing past ~$400–$500.
Parts You Might Need
- GE oven touchpad / keypad (membrane switch)
- GE oven user interface (UI) control board
- GE oven main control board / ERC (clock/control module)
- GE control panel assembly (glass + touch interface), model-specific
- Mounting screws / stand-offs for control panel (if originals are rusted or stripped)
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