GE Oven F25 Error Code Fix (Cooling Fan Fault)

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What This Error Means

F25 on a GE oven means “Cooling Fan Fault” on most modern GE wall ovens and ranges.

In plain terms: the electronics think the internal cooling fan isn’t moving enough air, so the oven shuts down to keep the control board from cooking itself.

Official Fix

Here’s the factory-approved path, boiled down:

  • Kill power at the breaker for at least 60 seconds. This hard-resets the control board and clears a one-time glitch.
  • Restore power and try a low bake (e.g., 300°F). If it heats normally and F25 doesn’t return after 10–15 minutes, you likely had a random fault.
  • Check airflow around the oven. Make sure the top and rear vents aren’t pushed tight against cabinetry, foil, or anything blocking air from escaping.
  • Listen for the cooling fan. Within a few minutes of starting a bake, you should hear a small fan running behind the control panel; if it’s silent or squeals, that’s your problem.
  • If F25 comes back repeatedly: GE’s official line is to shut off power and schedule service. A tech will test the cooling fan motor, wiring, and main control board (EOC) and replace what’s failed.

Bottom line from the manual: if a reset and basic airflow check don’t clear F25, the oven needs parts — usually a cooling fan, sometimes the control board.

The Technician’s Trick

This is what actually fixes most F25 calls without guessing and swapping parts blindly:

  • Kill power and pull the oven out. Flip the breaker off, slide the range forward or pull the wall oven partially from the cabinet so you can reach the back.
  • Pop the rear cover off. Remove the sheet-metal panel behind the control area; you’ll see a small blower or fan aimed at the electronics.
  • Spin the fan by hand. It should turn freely. If it’s stiff, gritty, or stuck, it’s seizing from heat and grease — that alone can trigger F25.
  • Blow it out and free it up. Vacuum or blow out dust, then work the blade back and forth until it moves smoothly; on some motors a tiny drop of high-temp oil on the shaft can buy you time, but if it binds again, replace the fan.
  • Check the wiring connectors. Unplug and re-seat the fan plug and the matching connector on the control board; look for browned plastic or burnt pins — that’s a sign the harness or board is cooked.
  • Test it live (carefully). Reinstall the back cover loosely, restore power, start a bake, and watch: if the board sends power but the fan doesn’t start, the motor is bad; if the fan never gets power, the control board is bad.
  • Lock in the fix. Replace the failed part — 9 times out of 10 it’s the cooling fan assembly; the rest of the time it’s the control board or a toasted connector.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Oven under ~10 years old, only the cooling fan is bad, and the total repair (parts + labor) is under about $350.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 10–15 years old, or you’re looking at both fan and control board (a $400–$600 hit); compare to the price of a comparable new GE or similar oven.
  • ❌ Replace: Over 15 years old, multiple other issues (burnt display, dead burners, rusted cavity), or any estimate that’s more than half the cost of a new unit.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Got other appliances throwing codes too? These guides can save you more service calls: