GE Oven F27 Error Code Fix

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What This Error Means

On most GE wall ovens and ranges, code F27 means “oven temperature sensor circuit fault.”

The control board thinks the oven’s temp probe is bad (open, shorted, or reading crazy), so it kills the heat and flashes F27.

Official Fix

This is the cleaned-up version of what the GE manual says:

  • Kill power to the oven at the breaker for at least 1 minute, then turn it back on. If F27 pops back up, keep going.
  • Pull the oven out just enough to reach the back (or remove the rear panel on a range). Make sure the power is OFF at the breaker.
  • Find the oven temperature sensor: a thin metal rod with two wires, usually on the upper back wall inside the oven. Its wires run through the rear wall to a connector.
  • Unplug the sensor connector and look at it. If it’s burnt, melted, or crusty, you’ve found a problem.
  • With the oven still unplugged, measure resistance across the sensor leads with a multimeter. At room temp it should be around 1080 Ω at 70°F (≈21°C), give or take about 10%.
  • If the reading is way off (near 0 Ω, OL, or nothing like ~1000–1200 Ω), replace the oven temperature sensor.
  • If the sensor tests good, inspect the wiring from that connector up to the control board: look for cuts, burns, pinched spots, or loose plugs. Repair or replace damaged wiring or connectors.
  • Reconnect everything firmly, restore power, and test. If F27 is still there with a good sensor and good wiring, the main control board is almost certainly bad and needs replacement.

If you’re not comfortable pulling the oven or using a meter, stop here and call a tech. Do not work on it with power connected.

The Technician's Trick

Here’s how a field tech usually speeds this up:

  • Do a real hard reset. Flip the breaker off for 5–10 minutes. Turn it back on while holding CLEAR/OFF (if your model has it) for 10–15 seconds. If F27 vanishes and doesn’t come back, it was just a control glitch.
  • Test the sensor from the board end. With power off and the control panel opened, meter the sensor circuit right at the control board connector. Same ~1080 Ω target. If the reading jumps or drops when you wiggle the harness, the wire is broken or the connector is dodgy somewhere in the body of the oven.
  • Reseat every connector in the path. Unplug the sensor connector and the matching plug on the board, then click them back in a few times. A slightly oxidized or loose connection can throw F27 even with a good sensor.
  • Board vs. sensor quick check. If you’ve got a 1 kΩ resistor handy, you can plug it into the sensor connector at the board in place of the real sensor (power off while you hook it up). Power back on and see what happens: if F27 clears, the sensor/wiring is bad; if F27 stays, the control board is the problem.

If you have to yank, pry, or bend anything around the wiring to make this happen, don’t. That’s where DIY turns into “now it needs a harness too.”

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Oven under ~10–12 years old, otherwise working fine, and you’re only looking at a sensor or single control board swap.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 12–15 years old, multiple past repairs, or it needs both sensor and control board to clear F27.
  • ❌ Replace: 15+ years old, cabinet/door in rough shape, or the repair estimate is more than ~50% of a similar new oven.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other appliance error codes too? These guides can save you time: