GE Profile Dishwasher F1 Error Code Fix (Leak / Flood Switch Trip)

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What This Error Means

F1 on a GE Profile dishwasher means the leak / flood sensor has tripped.

The control thinks there’s water sitting in the bottom pan or the tub is overfilled, so it locks out normal washing and may just try to drain or beep.

Official Fix

  • Kill power at the breaker. Don’t trust just the Start/Cancel button.
  • Pull the dishwasher out a few inches so you can see the sides and bottom. Pop off the toe-kick panel if it blocks your view.
  • Look in the bottom pan (under the tub) for standing water. If it’s wet, the machine is correctly screaming “leak”.
  • Sponge or towel out all water in that pan so you can actually see where new water shows up.
  • Check the usual leak spots:
    • Door gasket around the tub opening for tears, flat spots, or crud keeping it from sealing.
    • Bottom door seal / splash guard for rips or curling.
    • Inlet water valve area (where the house water line connects) for slow drips.
    • Circulation pump, sump, and hose clamps for cracks, loose clamps, or mineral tracks.
    • Drain hose at the pump and where it meets the garbage disposal / sink drain.
    • Float / flood switch in the base pan to be sure it’s not stuck up with grease or scale.
  • Fix what you can see:
    • Tighten loose hose clamps and fittings.
    • Replace any cracked hose or obviously dripping inlet valve.
    • Clean the door gasket and bottom seal; replace if they don’t spring back or are torn.
    • Clean and re-seat the float / flood switch if it’s gummed up or not moving freely.
  • Re-level the dishwasher so it doesn’t pitch forward and push water past the door seal. Adjust the front feet until the tub is level side-to-side and slightly back-tilted.
  • Reinstall the toe-kick, restore power, and run a short cycle while watching underneath for fresh drips. If F1 returns and you can’t spot the leak, the official call is: schedule a service tech.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s how techs get an F1-leveled GE Profile dishwasher back online fast so they can chase the leak under real conditions.

  • Kill power at the breaker. No exceptions.
  • Remove the toe-kick panel so you can see the base pan and the flood switch.
  • Dry the pan the fast way:
    • If you can safely move it, slide the dishwasher out and tilt it forward 20–30° onto thick towels. Let any trapped water in the base pan run out onto the towels.
    • Or, leave it in place and use a sponge / turkey baster / small wet-dry vac to suck every bit of water out of the pan around the float switch.
  • Blot the float / flood switch area dry with paper towels. If it’s really soaked, blow it with a hair dryer on cool or low warm for 5–10 minutes. Don’t roast the plastics.
  • Put it back down level, reconnect anything you moved, and restore power.
  • Run a quick rinse cycle while watching underneath with a flashlight. Slide paper towels under hoses and joints; any new leak will mark them fast.
  • If F1 stays gone and you don’t see new drips, you likely had a one-off overflow (too much suds, door not fully shut, etc.). If it comes back, you have an active leak you haven’t found yet.

This trick clears the latched flood condition so you can actually run the machine and see where it’s leaking. Just “reset and ignore” is how you end up with a rotten floor.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under ~10 years old, leak is from door gasket, hose, clamp, float, or inlet valve; parts are under about $150 and the tub itself is solid.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Repeated F1 leaks with no obvious source, minor tub rust, or you’re staring at both a circulation pump and control board replacement on a mid-age unit.
  • ❌ Replace: Cracked or rusted-through tub, warped door frame, or multiple big-ticket parts (pump + control + valve) on a dishwasher 12–15+ years old.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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