What This Error Means
F10 on a GE Profile dishwasher = Fill Error / Not Enough Water Coming In.
The board opened the water valve, waited, and didn’t see the tub reach the water level it expects, so it aborted the cycle and flashed F10.
Official Fix
Here’s the factory-approved playbook, minus the fluff.
- Kill power first. Flip the dishwasher breaker off. You don’t poke around live wiring on a wet machine.
- Confirm the water is actually on. Under the sink, find the dishwasher shutoff valve. Turn it fully counter-clockwise. Make sure nobody half-closed it.
- Check the supply line for kinks. The braided hose from the shutoff to the dishwasher can get crushed when someone stuffs cleaning bottles under the sink. Straighten any sharp bends.
- Clean the inlet screen at the valve.
- Shut off the water at the under-sink valve.
- Remove the lower toe-kick panel on the dishwasher.
- Find the water inlet valve where the supply line connects.
- Put a towel under it, disconnect the line, and look for a tiny mesh screen in the valve inlet.
- Rinse the screen clear of sand, rust, or scale. Toothbrush, not a screwdriver.
- Reconnect the line, snug but not gorilla-tight, and turn the water back on. Check for leaks.
- Make sure the float isn’t stuck “full.”
- Open the door and look in the front corner of the tub for a small plastic float or dome.
- Move it up and down. It should travel freely and you should hear a faint click from the float switch.
- If it’s jammed with soap crud or a utensil, clean it and free it up. If the float is stuck up, the board thinks the tub is already full and won’t let water in.
- Run a quick test fill.
- Restore power at the breaker.
- Start a normal cycle and close the door fully.
- Let it run 1–2 minutes, then open the door mid-cycle.
- You should see 1/2–1 inch of water over the filter area, not a dry bottom.
- If it’s still bone dry or just a puddle and F10 pops again, the water inlet valve or the water level sensing circuit is likely bad.
- When to stop and swap parts.
- If you have good water pressure at the under-sink valve and the hose is clear, but the dishwasher barely fills or throws F10 every time, the inlet valve is the first suspect.
- If it does fill with a decent amount of water but still tosses F10, the float switch or the main control board may not be reading the water level correctly.
- At that point the “official” fix is replacing the bad component and clearing the code by running a fresh cycle.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Machine under 8–10 years old, cabinet and racks in good shape, and you solve it with cleaning, a new inlet valve, or a float switch.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Older than 10 years or already rusty/noisy, and you’re looking at both a valve and a control board to chase F10.
- ❌ Replace: Tub is rusted, racks are shot, circulation pump is loud, and now it’s throwing F10 on top of that—put the money toward a new dishwasher.
Parts You Might Need
- GE dishwasher water inlet valve – the usual cause when water supply is fine but the tub stays dry.
Find GE dishwasher water inlet valve on Amazon - GE dishwasher float switch / water level switch – tells the board when the tub has enough water.
Find GE dishwasher float switch / water level switch on Amazon - Dishwasher supply hose (braided) – if the old one is kinked, crushed, or corroded.
Find Dishwasher supply hose on Amazon - GE dishwasher main control board – if it fills normally but still keeps flagging F10 with a known-good float switch.
Find GE dishwasher main control board on Amazon
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