GE Profile Dishwasher F20 Fix (Leak Detected Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

F20 on a GE Profile dishwasher means leak detected / water in the base pan.

The safety float under the tub has risen because there is water where it should never be, so the control board kills the cycle to stop a potential flood.

Official Fix

The factory playbook is simple: find the leak, dry the base, clear the float, then test.

Do this with power off the whole time:

  • Kill power at the breaker and shut off the dishwasher’s water supply valve under the sink.
  • Pull off the lower toe-kick panel so you can see the metal base under the tub.
  • Shine a light into the base. If you see standing water or soaked insulation, you have an active or recent leak and the F20 float is doing its job.
  • Soak up every drop from the base pan with towels or a sponge until it is bone dry. Make sure the small plastic float or micro-switch assembly in the base can move freely.
  • Start a short cycle with the panel still off and watch where water first shows up: door gasket area, sump joint, circulation pump seal, inlet valve, or any of the plastic hoses.
  • If the leak is at the door gasket, replace the gasket, clean the door mating surface, and re-test.
  • If the leak appears at a hose joint, tighten or replace the clamp and look for cracks in the hose.
  • If water drips from the pump, diverter, or sump seam, those assemblies usually need to be replaced rather than patched.
  • Once the leak path is fixed and the base stays dry for a full test cycle, flip the breaker off for 30 seconds, then back on. F20 should clear on the next start.
  • If F20 comes back immediately with a dry base, the float switch or its wiring is likely faulty and needs a meter check or replacement.

The Technician’s Trick

This is what techs do on a flooded-base F20 when you just want the machine to run long enough to spot the leak.

  • Kill power at the breaker and shut off the water. Do not skip this.
  • Pull the dishwasher out a few inches from the cabinet so you have room to tilt it.
  • Lay down thick towels in front, then carefully tip the whole unit forward about 30 to 45 degrees.
  • You will usually see water pour out from the base pan onto the towels. That is the water holding the float up and keeping F20 latched.
  • Set the unit back down, dry whatever you can reach, then slide it back in place without pinching hoses or the power cable.
  • Turn the water back on, restore power, and start a quick cycle while watching underneath with the toe panel still off.
  • Now you can see exactly where the fresh leak comes from instead of guessing. Once it is repaired and the base stays dry, the F20 will not return.

Important: this trick clears the symptom, not the cause. If you walk away without fixing the leak, you are gambling on cabinet damage and mold.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under about 8 years old, stainless tub, leak is clearly from a hose, clamp, inlet valve, or door gasket, and the cabinet floor is still solid.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit 8 to 12 years old or a midrange plastic-tub model, leak is from the circulation pump or sump assembly, or you already see swelling or soft spots in the floor.
  • ❌ Replace: Over 12 years old, repeated leak history, tub or frame is rusted or cracked, or damage to surrounding cabinets and floor will cost more than a new machine.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other appliance error codes around the house? These guides break down the common ones the same way.