GE Profile Dishwasher F23 Error Code Fix

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What This Error Means

F23 on most GE Profile dishwashers means: leak/overflow detected in the base pan.

The control board thinks there’s water sitting in the bottom tray under the tub, so it locks the machine to avoid a kitchen flood.

Note: GE reuses code numbers across some models. If your tech sheet behind the toe-kick says something slightly different for F23, treat it as a water-leak / safety shutdown problem either way.

Official Fix

Do it the way the manual wants, step by step:

  • Kill power and water first.
    Flip the dishwasher breaker off. Shut the under-sink water valve. Don’t skip this; you’re dealing with water around electrics.
  • Pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet.
    • Open the door and remove the mounting screws at the top/side of the frame.
    • Gently slide the unit out a foot or two so you can see underneath.
  • Check the base pan for standing water.
    • Use a flashlight at the front bottom and from the side.
    • If you see a puddle in the plastic/metal tray, that’s what tripped F23.
    • Sponge or towel out all the water so the float / leak switch drops back down.
  • Find where it’s leaking.
    Common leak spots:

    • Door gasket – torn, flattened, or split corners.
    • Bottom door seal – drips from the very bottom of the door during a wash.
    • Inlet valve area – drip where the water line connects under the left/right front.
    • Drain hose or pump – wet trail at the side or back during drain.
    • Cracked plastic parts – sump, diverter, or internal hoses.
  • Fix or replace the bad part.
    • Loose clamp or fitting: tighten it.
    • Cracked hose: replace the hose.
    • Bad door gasket: replace the gasket and clean the door sealing surface.
    • Leaking inlet valve / pump body: replace the whole valve or pump assembly.
  • Reassemble and test for leaks.
    • Slide the dishwasher back most of the way, but leave the toe-kick off so you can watch underneath.
    • Turn the breaker and water back on.
    • Run a quick wash and watch the base with a flashlight for any fresh drips.
    • If the base pan stays dry and the float isn’t lifted, F23 should clear after a power cycle or the first normal run.
  • If F23 comes back immediately with a dry base pan:
    The leak/float switch or its wiring may be faulty. At that point, the manual’s answer is: call for service or replace the sensor assembly.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s the real-world move techs use when the pan is wet but the leak is minor or intermittent.

  • Tip-and-drain reset.
    • With power and water off, slide the dishwasher out.
    • Put a towel in front. Carefully tip the machine forward about 30–45°.
    • Let any water in the base pan pour out the front onto towels or a shallow tray.
    • Stand it back up and dry the float / leak switch area with a fan or hair dryer on cool.
  • Hard reset the control.
    • Turn the breaker off for 5–10 minutes.
    • Flip it back on and try a short cycle.
    • If F23 is gone and no new water shows up underneath, you likely tripped the sensor from a one-time overflow (too much soap, door not fully shut, etc.).
  • But don’t ignore a repeat F23.
    If the code keeps returning or you see fresh water in the pan, you’ve got a real leak. Then you’re back to the official fix: find the source and change the part, not just dry the sensor.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under ~8–10 years old, leak is clearly from a gasket, hose, clamp, or inlet valve, and parts are under about $150.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Tub or sump is cracked, or multiple wet components (pump + hoses + valve) and total repair cost is creeping over 40–50% of a new dishwasher.
  • ❌ Replace: Older than ~12 years, heavy rust or other issues already bugging you, or a quoted repair approaches the price of a mid-range new GE/other brand unit.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Working on other appliances or chasing multiple error codes around the house? These guides help you decode the rest of the chaos: