GE Profile Dishwasher F27 Error Code Fix (Leak Detected)

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What This Error Means

F27 on a GE Profile dishwasher means Leak Detected / Flood Switch Tripped.

The machine found water in the base pan and shut itself down so it doesn’t dump that same water onto your floor.

In real terms, something inside is dripping or spraying where it shouldn’t:

  • Loose or cracked hose
  • Leaking circulation pump or sump seal
  • Door gasket or bottom door seal letting water past
  • Over-sudsing (wrong detergent or too much) foaming into the base
  • Past repair that wasn’t tightened or sealed correctly

Until the base is dry and the leak is fixed, F27 will keep coming back.

Official Fix

GE’s official line: power it down, dry it out, fix the leak, then reset.

  • Kill power first. Flip the dishwasher’s breaker off and close the water shutoff under the sink.
  • Pull the toe-kick panel. Remove the screws at the very bottom of the front panel and take off the metal or plastic kick plate. Check for a folded tech sheet there that confirms F27 as a leak/flood error on your exact model.
  • Check the base pan for water. Shine a flashlight under the tub. If you see standing water or damp insulation, the flood switch has done its job.
  • Dry the base completely. Use towels, a sponge, or a wet/dry vac. Get it bone dry, especially around the float or leak sensor.
  • Look for the obvious leak points.
    • White plastic inlet valve and its small hoses (front-left or front-right)
    • Big black/gray sump area and the main circulation pump body
    • Drain hose connections at the pump and under the sink/garbage disposal
    • Door gasket (rubber around the opening) and bottom door seal
  • Turn power and water back on. Run a short cycle with the toe-kick still off while you watch with a flashlight.
  • Find the drip. As soon as you see water escaping, hit Cancel, shut the breaker back off, and note exactly where it came from.
  • Repair the leak. Replace the bad hose, gasket, or pump/sump assembly; tighten clamps and fittings; make sure everything is seated flat and square.
  • Final test. With everything reassembled and dry, run another full cycle. No leaks and no F27? You’re done.

If the base is dry, no leaks are visible, and F27 still pops up, the flood switch or main control board may be bad and usually need replacement.

The Technician’s Trick

This is what techs do when they just want the truth fast, not the script.

  • Slide it out and tip it. With power and water off, pull the dishwasher out a foot or two and gently tip the whole unit forward 20–30 degrees onto a thick towel. Any water in the base pan will pour out. That’s usually enough to drop the float and clear F27 for testing.
  • Run it ‘naked’. Push it back but leave the toe-kick off. Turn power and water back on, then run a quick cycle while you squat in front with a flashlight. Watch the first 10–15 minutes: fill, wash, and early drain. That’s when almost all leaks show up.
  • Track the drip line. Water trails tell you the story: from pump to hose, from corner of the door down the inner panel, or from a cracked plastic sump. Don’t guess—follow the trail back to the source.
  • Never bypass the flood switch. Some people jump it out to get by. Don’t. That’s how you end up with a flooded kitchen and a dead control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under 8–10 years old, tub is solid (no rust/cracks), and the leak is clearly from a hose, gasket, or valve under about $150 in parts.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 10–12 years old, multiple small leaks or heavy corrosion in the base, or you’re paying labor that pushes total repair near half the price of a decent mid-range replacement.
  • ❌ Replace: Cracked tub, circulation pump plus control board both suspect, or any repair estimate over ~60–70% of a comparable new GE/other-brand dishwasher.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other annoying error codes around the house? These guides help you speak machine: