GE Profile Dishwasher F29 Error Code Fix

Here’s the “by-the-book” sequence GE expects for an F29 wash-pump fault.

• 1. Kill power first.
  • Flip the dishwasher breaker OFF. Don’t trust the control panel.
  • Verify the display is dead before you touch anything under the machine.
• 2. Clear the obvious junk inside.
  • Open the door, pull out the bottom rack.
  • Remove the bottom filter and any mesh screens.
  • Clean out food sludge, labels, glass, bones, twist ties – anything in the sump well.
  • Spin the lower and upper spray arms by hand. If they bind, clear the blockage or replace the arm.
• 3. Power back on and quick test.
  • Turn the breaker ON.
  • Run a short or rinse cycle.
  • If it runs normally and no F29 comes back, you caught a one-time stall. If F29 returns, keep going.
• 4. Get under the dishwasher and find the wash pump.
  • Breaker OFF again. You’re working underneath now.
  • Remove the toe-kick/kick plate (usually a couple of screws at the base).
  • Locate the circulation pump: larger motor mounted on the plastic sump, with big hoses attached. Don’t confuse it with the smaller drain pump.
  • Look for burn marks, melted plastic, water trails, or a cooked smell. Any of that = likely bad pump.
• 5. Check connectors and wiring.
  • Unplug the pump connector and plug it back in firmly.
  • Follow the wire harness as far as you can: look for pinched, rubbed, or broken wires.
  • At the control board (inside the door or under the tub, model-dependent), confirm the wash-pump connector is fully seated and not corroded.
• 6. Test the wash motor (if you own a meter).
  • With power OFF, disconnect the pump.
  • Measure resistance across the motor pins. Open circuit (OL) or near-zero ohms = bad motor. A healthy motor is typically somewhere in the tens of ohms (exact spec is on the tech sheet if you have it).
  • If your model has an external capacitor on the pump, check it for bulging or leakage; replace if suspect.
• 7. See if the control is sending power. (Advanced; be careful.)
  • Reconnect the pump, secure everything so nothing can short.
  • Turn breaker ON, start a wash cycle.
  • While it should be washing, carefully check the pump connector for line voltage with a multimeter.
  • Voltage present but pump dead = failed circulation pump.
  • No voltage but wiring looks good = bad main control board.
• 8. Replace the failed component.
  • Bad pump: Swap the circulation pump assembly. Expect to release a clamp or locking tabs and twist/pull the pump out of the sump. Transfer or replace any o-rings and seals so it doesn’t leak.
  • Bad control: Replace the control board, moving one wire at a time from old to new so you don’t mis-wire it.
• 9. Button it up and leak-check.
  • Reinstall filters, toe-kick, and any insulation.
  • Run a quick cycle while watching the bottom and sides for drips.
  • If it washes normally with no F29, you’re done.

If you’re not comfortable with live-voltage testing or pulling the pump, this is exactly the sort of job a pro tech does daily. Parts are usually the big cost; labor is straightforward.