GE Profile Dishwasher F31 Fix (Fast Error Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

F31 on a GE Profile dishwasher means the control is not getting a sane signal from the water-level/pressure sensor.
The board can’t tell how much water is in the tub, thinks the level is wrong or unsafe, and shuts the cycle down.

Official Fix

Do this by the book first. You’re dealing with water and mains power, so don’t wing it live.

  • Kill power at the breaker, not just the dishwasher button. Confirm the control panel is dead.
  • Shut off the water supply valve under the sink if it’s easy to reach. Not required for diagnosis, but safer.
  • Open the door and look inside:
    • Is there standing water in the bottom? Note it.
    • Check the tub filter and sump area for chunks of food, glass, twist ties, etc.
  • Pull the toe-kick panel (bottom front cover): usually a couple of screws. Shine a light in the base.
    • If you see water in the base pan, the flood/float switch is probably tripped.
    • Sponge or towel out all water. You still need to find the leak later.
  • Find the water-level / pressure sensor.
    • On most GE Profile units it’s mounted low on the side or bottom of the tub or sump.
    • It may have a small rubber hose and a 2–3 wire connector going to it.
  • Inspect the wiring harness:
    • Unplug the connector from the sensor.
    • Look for corrosion, green/white crud, burnt pins, or loose terminals.
    • Fix any loose pins; if melted or corroded, the harness and/or sensor need replacing.
  • Check the pressure hose (if your model uses one):
    • Make sure it’s not kinked, cracked, or full of greasy sludge.
    • If it’s blocked, the sensor “thinks” the water level never changes and throws F31.
  • Sensor test / replace (what the manual calls for):
    • If you have a multimeter and the tech sheet (usually behind the toe-kick), ohm-check the sensor per spec.
    • If it’s open, shorted, or way out of range, replace the water-level/pressure sensor assembly.
  • Control board check:
    • If wiring and sensor look good but F31 returns immediately, the main control may not be reading the sensor correctly.
    • Manual fix step is: replace the main control board if F31 persists after a known-good sensor is installed.
  • Power back up and test:
    • Restore power at the breaker.
    • Run a short cycle and watch the fill and first 5–10 minutes.
    • If it fills, washes, and drains without throwing F31, you’re done.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s what techs do when F31 pops up and everything “looks” fine.

  • Hard reset it the right way:
    • Kill power at the breaker for a full 5 minutes.
    • This lets the control fully discharge and forget a glitchy reading.
  • Clear the pressure path, not just the filter:
    • With power OFF and toe-kick off, pop the small rubber hose off the pressure sensor (if fitted).
    • Blow gently through the hose toward the tub/sump to push out soap scum and gunk.
    • If it’s totally blocked, cut off the nasty end and re-seat, or replace the hose.
  • Un-stick the flood/float switch:
    • If the base pan was wet, the float or flood switch can stay stuck even after drying.
    • Manually move the float up and down a few times so it clicks cleanly.
    • A stuck float can trick the board into thinking the water level never changes, which feeds into F31.
  • Mini leak-hunt instead of full teardown:
    • Run a quick cycle with the toe-kick off and a flashlight on the base.
    • Watch the first fill and first drain only; look for drips from the inlet, pump, or side seams.
    • Fix that small leak now so the base pan doesn’t refill and re-trigger the sensor and F31.
  • Only then start buying boards:
    • If hose, float, wiring, and sensor are all good and you still get F31, that’s when a tech finally calls it a bad main board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Unit under ~8–10 years old, tub and racks in good shape, and it only needs a sensor/float or hose work (usually under $150 in parts).
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 10–12 years old, works OK otherwise, but looks like it needs both a water-level sensor and a main control board (parts often in the $200–$350 range).
  • ❌ Replace: 12+ years old, noisy wash motor, rusted racks, or leaks everywhere, and now F31 plus a bad main board — repair quote over ~50% of a decent new dishwasher.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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