GE Profile Dishwasher F34 Error Code Fix

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What This Error Means

F34 on a GE Profile dishwasher = door latch / door-closed signal fault.

The control board thinks the door is open or cannot see the latch switch, so it refuses to start or continue a cycle.

Translation: the machine is fine with water and power, but it does not trust that the door is safely locked.

Official Fix

This is the straight-from-the-manual path. Do these in order, power off first.

  • Kill power. Flip the dishwasher breaker off or unplug it. Give it 1–2 minutes so the control fully discharges.
  • Check the obvious door stuff. Make sure nothing is hitting the door – tall pans, warped racks, utensil handles, detergent pod stuck at the lip, etc.
  • Inspect the door latch hook. Look at the metal/plastic strike on the tub and the latch in the door. If it is bent, loose, cracked, or wobbly, the switch will not close and F34 pops.
  • Close the door firmly and re-try. With power back on, push the door in hard while you press Start. If it only runs while you are pushing, the latch/strike is out of alignment.
  • Check for door sag. Open the door halfway and lift it up and down. Excessive play means worn hinges or a warped door can keep the latch from engaging.
  • Inspect the gasket area. A swollen, folded, or mis-seated door gasket can keep the door from closing that last millimeter the switch needs.
  • Test the latch switch (for the handy). With power off and the inner door panel removed, unplug the door latch harness and meter the switch. It should read closed (near 0 Ω) when latched and open when unlatched. If not, the latch is bad.
  • Check wiring to the control board. Follow the latch harness back to the control. Look for burnt pins, loose connectors, chewed wires in the door bend area.
  • Factory reset / clear code. Restore power, then press and hold Start or Start/Cancel (model dependent) for about 3–5 seconds to cancel, then try a fresh cycle. If F34 comes right back with a solid latch, suspect the control board.
  • Replace failed parts. If the latch switch fails continuity: replace the door latch assembly. If latch and wiring test good but F34 will not clear: the electronic control board is the next part.

If you are not comfortable opening the door panel or testing live circuits, stop at the visual checks and call a tech.

The Technician’s Trick

Here is what field techs actually do when F34 will not go away but the latch “looks fine”. Do this carefully and only with power off.

  • Shim and bend test. With power off, slightly bend the metal strike (the hook on the tub) inward using pliers, or add a thin piece of tape or cardboard on the door where it meets the tub. The goal is to pull the door a hair tighter so the switch fully clicks. If the code disappears after this, the latch and door were just out of alignment.
  • Door-pressure test. Turn power back on, select a cycle, then push in and lift up slightly on the door while pressing Start. If it starts and keeps running as long as you hold pressure, the hinges are sagging or the tub/door is slightly warped – you can often live with a subtle strike adjustment instead of major parts.
  • Hard control reset. Kill the breaker for a full 10 minutes, then restore power and immediately start a short cycle. This forces the control to fully power-cycle instead of the quick “soft” reset the buttons do. Sometimes F34 is a stuck logic flag, not a true hardware fault.
  • Bypass for diagnosis only. A pro may temporarily jumper the latch switch wires to simulate a closed door and confirm the control board is good. Do not run the machine like this long term – it is a test only – but it tells you fast whether to buy a latch or a board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under 8–10 years old, interior in good shape, and it only needs a door latch or strike adjustment (usually a cheap, quick repair).
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Older GE Profile with rusted racks or other issues where it needs both latch and main control board – weigh that cost against a mid-range new dishwasher.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub is rusting, multiple past repairs, and F34 is just one of several electrical problems – do not sink money into it, put the cash toward a new unit.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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