GE Profile Dishwasher F37 Error Code Fix

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What This Error Means

On a GE Profile dishwasher, F37 means the water temperature sensor (thermistor) signal is bad or out of range.

The control board is getting nonsense from that sensor, so it shuts the wash down instead of running with wrong water temperature.

Official Fix

Here’s the straight factory playbook:

  • Kill power at the breaker, not just the control panel. You don’t want live voltage under there.
  • Wait about 1 minute, turn the breaker back on, and try a short cycle. If F37 never comes back, it was a one-time glitch.
  • If the code returns, shut the breaker off again and slide the dishwasher out a few inches from the cabinet.
  • Remove the lower toe-kick panel and any insulation to expose the bottom of the tub and sump area.
  • Locate the temperature sensor/thermistor. It’s a small two-wire probe that snaps into the plastic sump or the floor/side of the tub.
  • Visually inspect that sensor and its wiring harness. Look for melted plastic, kinks, rubbed-through insulation, or burn marks.
  • Check that the sensor connector is fully seated on both sides (sensor end and control-board end). No loose, corroded, or wet pins.
  • Find the tech sheet (usually taped behind the toe-kick or in a plastic pouch) and look up the correct resistance spec for the thermistor at room temp.
  • With a multimeter, test the sensor across its two pins. If it reads open (OL), dead short (0 Ω), or way off from the spec, replace the sensor.
  • If the sensor ohms good, test continuity on the two wires from the sensor plug back to the control board plug. Repair or replace the harness if either wire is open.
  • Reassemble the lower panel, restore power, and cancel/reset the current cycle from the keypad to clear the code.
  • Run a full test wash. If F37 comes back even with a known-good sensor and harness, the main control board is the next part on the hook and should be replaced.

The factory path is simple: verify sensor → verify wiring → replace control board if both check out.

The Technician’s Trick

What a real tech does before ordering pricey parts:

  • Do a real hard reset. Flip the breaker off for 5–10 minutes, not just a quick blip. Turn it back on, then press and hold Start for about 5 seconds to cancel and reset the dishwasher logic.
  • Clean the sensor instead of auto-replacing it. Hard water, soap film, and gunk can throw off the reading without the sensor actually being bad.
  • With power off, pop the sensor out of the sump or tub wall. Be gentle so you don’t crack the plastic housing.
  • Soak the tip in hot water with a bit of vinegar, then scrub it with an old toothbrush to remove white scale or slime.
  • Rinse, dry the sensor completely, and snap it back in firmly so it seals and points the same direction it did before.
  • Fight the flaky connector. A lot of F37 calls are just dirty contacts, not dead parts.
  • Spray both halves of the sensor plug with electrical contact cleaner or 90% isopropyl alcohol. Let them dry, then plug/unplug a few times to scrape off oxidation.
  • Secure the harness under the tub with a zip-tie so it’s not hanging by the sensor or rubbing on sharp metal when the unit vibrates.
  • After all that, run a hot cycle. If F37 is gone, you just dodged buying a control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under ~8–10 years old, interior in good shape, and it only needs a sensor or simple harness work — cheap and worth the time.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Around 10+ years old or already had pump/heater/control issues; OK to fix if it’s just a sensor, but think twice before tossing in a new control board.
  • ❌ Replace: Cracked or rusted tub, multiple other error codes, or it needs both a main control board and motor/heater — you’re closing in on new-dishwasher money.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Got other gadgets around the house throwing mystery codes? These walk-throughs help too: