GE Profile Dishwasher F38 Fix (Straight-Talk Guide)

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What This Error Means

F38 on a GE Profile dishwasher = wash / circulation motor circuit fault.

Translation: the control board thinks the main wash pump isn’t running right (stalled, shorted, open, or not talking to the board), so it shuts things down and throws F38.

Official Fix

Here’s basically what the service manual wants you to do.

  • Kill the power first. Flip the dishwasher breaker OFF. Don’t trust just the front buttons.
  • Grab the tech sheet. On most GE Profiles it’s behind the toe-kick or taped behind the control panel. Confirm F38 = wash motor / motor circuit fault for your exact model.
  • Quick visual check inside the tub.
    • Pull out the lower rack.
    • Pop out the bottom filter and screens.
    • Look down into the sump: glass, bones, twist ties jammed around the impeller? If yes, clear all that out.
  • Get access to the circulation pump.
    • Remove the toe-kick panel under the door.
    • On many Profiles you’ll need to slide the unit out a bit to reach the pump underneath.
    • The circulation pump is the big motor on the side or bottom of the sump, usually with two hoses and a wiring plug.
  • Check the wiring harness to the pump.
    • Look for burnt connectors, loose plugs, chewed or pinched wires.
    • Reseat the connector to the pump and to the control board. Make sure they click in fully.
  • Test the circulation pump windings (multimeter needed).
    • Breaker still OFF.
    • Unplug the pump connector.
    • Measure resistance across the pump terminals.
    • Compare your reading to the spec on the tech sheet. If it’s way off (open circuit or near-zero ohms), the pump is bad.
  • If the pump is out of spec → replace the pump assembly.
    • Order the correct GE circulation pump for your model.
    • Swap it in, moving any seals/gaskets over if needed.
    • Make sure the o-ring surfaces are clean so it doesn’t leak.
  • If the pump tests good, check power from the board.
    • This is 120V work. Only do this if you’re comfortable and know safety basics.
    • Reconnect everything, leave the connector accessible, restore power.
    • Start a cycle and carefully meter the pump wires when it should be washing (not just filling or draining).
    • No voltage when the board should be driving the pump = bad control board (assuming all wiring is good).
  • If wiring and pump are good → replace the main control board.
    • Kill power again.
    • Open the door and remove the inner panel screws to access the control board housing (usually at the top or in the door).
    • Swap the board one connector at a time so you don’t mix anything up.
  • Reassemble and test.
    • Put panels and filters back.
    • Restore power at the breaker.
    • Run a short cycle and confirm: water fills, you hear strong spraying, no F38.

The Technician’s Trick

When this code pops, a lot of the time the motor isn’t “dead”, it’s just jammed or the board is latched up. Here’s the off-the-books stuff techs try before slamming in new parts.

  • Free a stuck impeller from inside the tub.
    • Power OFF at the breaker.
    • Pull the lower rack and the filter/screen again.
    • Shine a flashlight down into the sump opening.
    • On many Profiles you can see or touch the wash impeller with a finger or screwdriver handle.
    • Gently spin it. If it was locked and suddenly breaks free, you likely had glass or crud binding it.
    • Fish out any debris you dislodge. Reassemble and test before buying a motor.
  • Hard reset the board, not just a quick on/off.
    • Turn the breaker OFF for at least 10–15 minutes.
    • Press and hold Start/Cancel on the front panel (while power is off) for 10 seconds to bleed down caps.
    • Flip the breaker back on and try a rinse only or quick cycle.
    • Sometimes F38 is a latched fault and won’t clear with the front buttons alone.
  • Reseat and “lock in” the motor connector.
    • With power OFF, unplug the circulation pump harness and the matching connector at the board.
    • Spray a tiny bit of electrical contact cleaner if you’ve got it (not WD-40).
    • Plug them back in firmly until you feel a solid click.
    • If the plastic latch is weak, tech trick: a small zip tie around the connector shell to keep it from backing out from vibration.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under ~7–8 years old, tub is clean (no rust cracks), and you’re only looking at a circulation pump or board under about $200–$250 in parts.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 8–12 years old, already had other repairs, and you need both a pump and a control board; weigh parts cost vs. a new mid-range dishwasher.
  • ❌ Replace: Over 12 years old, interior is rusted or leaking, racks are shot, and F38 is just the latest problem — put the money toward a new machine.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other appliance error codes around the house? These guides might save you more service calls: