GE Profile Dishwasher F39 Error Code Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

F39 on a GE Profile dishwasher is a wash system fault code. In plain English: the control board isn’t happy with what it sees from the circulation pump or a related sensor, so it kills the cycle and throws the code.

GE doesn’t publish one universal meaning for F39 across all Profile models, but when this F-code shows up, it almost always means trouble somewhere in the wash motor / wiring / main control board chain.

Official Fix

Here’s the factory-style playbook, step by step.

  • 1. Hard-reset the control.
    Kill power at the breaker or unplug the dishwasher for at least 5 minutes. Restore power and run a short cycle (Rinse or Quick). If F39 never comes back, it was a one-time glitch. If it returns, keep going.
  • 2. Make it safe and pull the machine out a bit.
    Shut the power back off at the breaker. Turn off the dishwasher’s water supply valve under the sink. Open the door and remove the mounting screws from the top or sides that hold it to the counter. Gently slide the dishwasher out 6–12 inches so you can see the bottom front area.
  • 3. Check the sump for jams.
    Open the door, pull out the lower rack. Remove the filter and the sump cover. Look for broken glass, bones, toothpicks, labels—anything that could jam the wash motor impeller. Clear it all, reassemble the filter/sump cover, restore power, and test. If F39 is still there, move on.
  • 4. Inspect the circulation pump and wiring.
    Kill power again. Remove the toe-kick panel (bottom front cover). Find the main wash / circulation pump under the tub. Make sure its wiring connector is fully seated and not half hanging off. Look for burnt plastic, darkened pins, melted spots, or chewed/chafed wires. Any cooked connector or damaged harness needs repair or replacement before you blame the board.
  • 5. Look for leaks hitting the electrics.
    While you’re down there, check around the sump, pump, and hoses for mineral trails, rust marks, or dried water lines. A slow leak dripping onto wiring or the control board can trigger weird F-codes. If you see a leak, the official move is: fix the leak source first (cracked sump, loose hose clamp, bad seal) before you stick new electronics in.
  • 6. Check the circulation motor (if you own a meter).
    If you’re comfortable with a multimeter, disconnect the power leads to the circulation pump. Measure resistance across the motor windings. An open reading (OL) or something clearly out-of-range compared to the tech sheet for your model means the motor is shot and needs replacing. If it reads in a normal range and the impeller spins freely by hand, the motor is probably okay and the control is more suspect.
  • 7. Inspect and, if needed, replace the main control board.
    Most GE Profile dishwashers hide the main control board behind a cover on the lower right side behind the kick panel. Open the cover and look for burn marks, charred traces, swollen components, or corrosion from past leaks. If wiring and pump look good but the board looks cooked—or F39 pops back instantly after a reset—the official fix is to replace the control board with the exact part number for your model.
  • 8. Final test.
    Reassemble panels, push the dishwasher back in, secure it with the mounting screws, turn water and power back on. Run a full wash cycle. If F39 stays gone and the spray sounds strong and steady, you’re done. If F39 survives all this, you’re into deeper diagnostic territory (obscure sensors or harness issues) and it’s time for a professional with the exact tech sheet for your model.

If any of this feels over your head once panels are off and wires are visible, stop and call a tech. No shame in that—saves you from cooking a $200 board by accident.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under ~8–10 years old, cabinet and tub are solid, and you’re looking at either a circulation pump or a control board (not both). DIY or a straightforward service call that lands under roughly half the price of a new machine.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Around 10–12 years old, plastic parts getting brittle, maybe a history of other issues, and the quote for motor + board + labor is drifting into the mid-$300s or higher. Fix only if you really like this machine and the rest of your kitchen is matched.
  • ❌ Replace: Older than ~12 years, signs of leaks or tub damage, or you’ve been told both motor and board are suspect with a total bill north of ~$500. Put that cash toward a new dishwasher instead of chasing F39 around.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing other appliance error codes around the house? These breakdowns might save you more time and money: