What This Error Means
F22 on a Honeywell Home / Honeywell alarm keypad almost always means: Zone 22 Fault – the sensor programmed as Zone 22 looks open, missing, or tampered.
In plain terms: the system thinks that specific door, window, or motion sensor is not secure, so it won’t go to READY and will keep beeping or flashing at you.
Which physical device is “Zone 22” depends on how your installer labeled it – usually a door or window contact, sometimes a motion or glass-break.
Official Fix
Do it the way the manual expects: find Zone 22, make it look normal again, then reset the panel.
- 1. Identify what Zone 22 actually is.
- Look at the keypad text. Many keypads will scroll something like 22 FRONT DOOR or 22 BACK WINDOW.
- If you just see F22 and no words, arm to chime mode and open/close doors and windows one by one. Watch the display – whatever trips Zone 22 is your problem child.
- 2. Check the obvious: is it actually closed?
- For a door/window sensor: make sure the door or window is fully shut.
- Check alignment: the small magnet piece should sit tight next to the bigger sensor body. Gap no more than a few millimeters (around 1/4–1/2 inch).
- If the frame warped (weather, settling), the magnet may have drifted too far away. Push the magnet by hand – if F22 clears, you’ve found it.
- 3. Check the cover and tamper switch.
- Most wireless Honeywell sensors have a tiny spring or button inside that must be pressed by the cover.
- If the cover is cracked, half‑open, or missing, the panel can treat it as a fault or tamper and show F22.
- Snap the cover back on firmly until it clicks. Don’t leave wires or foam stuck in there.
- 4. Replace the sensor battery if it’s wireless.
- Disarm the system completely first.
- Open the Zone 22 sensor carefully (small slot for a flat screwdriver). Watch the little tamper switch.
- Swap the battery with the same type (common: CR123A, CR2032, CR2025 – check the old one).
- Match polarity, don’t touch contacts with greasy fingers, then close until the cover snaps and the tamper is held down.
- 5. Reset the fault on the keypad.
- Enter your user code then OFF (often your code + 1) twice. On many panels that clears the fault history.
- The display should return to READY or similar. If it still shows F22, the sensor is still not happy.
- 6. Power cycle the panel (only if needed and you’re comfortable).
- Unplug the transformer from the wall outlet.
- Disconnect the main backup battery inside the panel can (two slip connectors).
- Wait 30 seconds, reconnect the battery, then the transformer.
- Let it reboot and check if F22 returns. If it does, the Zone 22 sensor or wiring is likely bad, not just a glitch.
- 7. When to call the alarm company or installer.
- If Zone 22 is a hardwired sensor and you see loose, corroded, or broken wires.
- If you’ve replaced the battery and reseated the cover and F22 still won’t clear.
- If you’re monitored and don’t want to accidentally trigger a tamper/dispatch during testing.
The Technician’s Trick
Here’s what field techs actually do when the manual “check the zone” routine wastes time.
- Fast way to prove Zone 22 is the bad sensor.
- Turn chime on at the keypad.
- Pop the cover off any suspect sensor; each time you do, the keypad should chime and show that zone.
- When you open one and the keypad screams about Zone 22, you’ve found it. Label it with tape so you don’t forget.
- Bypass Zone 22 so the system will arm anyway. (Security trade‑off, but it gets the alarm usable.)
- On most Honeywell panels: enter your code + 6 (BYPASS) + 22, then arm as usual.
- The keypad should show something like BYPASS 22. That zone is ignored until you disarm.
- Good when the sensor is dead and you’re waiting on a replacement. Just remember: that door/window is not protected while bypassed.
- Magnet cheat for a swollen door.
- If the door shifted and the magnet no longer lines up, don’t rebuild the frame today.
- Hold or tape the magnet directly against the sensor body where it reliably clears F22.
- That’s a temp fix. Later, move or re‑mount the magnet so it lines up correctly when the door is closed.
- Stuff the tamper switch if the plastic is shot.
- Cracked cover that won’t press the tamper? Fold a bit of paper or tape over the tamper switch to keep it pressed, then close the cover.
- Again: this is a band‑aid so the system stops yelling until you swap the sensor.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: One or two zones (like just F22) acting up on an otherwise solid system – replacing a sensor or battery is cheap and fast.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Multiple zones dropping (F20, F21, F22, etc.) on a 10–15‑year‑old panel – you can keep patching sensors, but it might be time to price a modern system.
- ❌ Replace: Panel is ancient, keypads are fading, and you’re getting quotes close to the cost of a new DIY smart security kit – put the money into a full upgrade instead of chasing every F‑code.
Parts You Might Need
- Replacement Honeywell wireless door/window sensor – for a dead or cracked Zone 22 contact.
Find Replacement Honeywell wireless door/window sensor on Amazon - Replacement door/window magnet – when the magnet fell off, got lost, or won’t line up anymore.
Find Replacement door/window magnet on Amazon - CR123A lithium batteries – common in Honeywell wireless motion and glass‑break sensors.
Find CR123A lithium batteries on Amazon - CR2032 coin cell batteries – used in many slim door/window contacts.
Find CR2032 coin cell batteries on Amazon - Replacement Honeywell motion detector – if Zone 22 is a motion sensor that just won’t clear even after a fresh battery.
Find Replacement Honeywell motion detector on Amazon - Double‑sided mounting tape or small mounting screws – to re‑seat loose sensors or magnets.
Find Double‑sided mounting tape on Amazon - Alarm panel backup battery – if you’re also seeing random low‑power or communication issues along with zone faults.
Find Alarm panel backup battery on Amazon
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See also
Fighting other gear throwing mystery error codes? These guides can save you some time: