Instant Pot Pressure Cooker F3 Error Code Fix

by

What This Error Means

F3 on an Instant Pot–style electric pressure cooker means a temperature sensor fault.

The control board is seeing a wild or impossible reading from the heat sensor, so it kills the heater to avoid overheating or running dry.

Official Fix

What the manual (or manufacturer) expects you to do:

  • Unplug it. Don’t keep restarting it. Pull the plug and let it cool for at least 20–30 minutes.
  • Empty and clean.
    • Remove the inner pot, food, and trivet.
    • Wipe the underside of the inner pot clean and smooth.
    • Wipe the round metal sensor plate / disc in the center of the heater plate inside the base. No burned-on food, no grease, no water drops.
  • Check for the right pot. Use only the correct stainless-steel inner pot for that model. Wrong or warped pots throw the sensor off.
  • Look for warping or burn marks.
    • If the inner pot bottom is domed, badly scratched, or blue/burned, it can cause bad sensor contact.
    • If it looks cooked to death, replace the pot before trying again.
  • Dry out any moisture.
    • If soup or water boiled over, moisture may be under the inner plate.
    • With it unplugged, leave the lid off and let the cooker air-dry 24 hours in a warm, dry room.
  • Rebuild it correctly.
    • Reinstall the clean inner pot.
    • Check the silicone sealing ring is fully seated and not twisted.
    • Make sure the float valve moves freely and isn’t gummed up.
  • Use a known-good outlet. Plug straight into a wall outlet, no power strip, no extension cord.
  • Run a water test.
    • Add about 2 cups of water.
    • Close the lid, set to Pressure Cook/Manual for 5 minutes.
    • If it comes to pressure and finishes, the F3 was likely from gunk, a warped pot, or moisture and you’re done.
  • If F3 pops up again quickly (right away or within a minute or two with clean pot and water):
    • The official answer: the temperature sensor or control board is defective.
    • Stop using it. Contact Instant Pot (or the cooker brand) support for repair or replacement options.

If you’re under warranty, that’s the end of the story: document the error, don’t open the unit, and push for a warranty replacement.

The Technician’s Trick

Out of warranty and handy with tools? Here’s what a real tech actually does to deal with F3.

  • Safety first.
    • Unplug the cooker.
    • Let it cool fully. No warm metal, no steam.
  • Flip it and open the base.
    • Remove the inner pot and lid.
    • Flip the cooker upside down on a towel.
    • Remove the screws in the base (often under rubber feet or trim).
    • Carefully lift the bottom cover off without yanking any wires.
  • Find the temperature sensor.
    • Look at the center of the heater plate area from underneath.
    • You’ll see a small round sensor or a clip-on disc with two thin wires running to the control board.
  • Reseat the sensor plug.
    • Follow the two sensor wires to the main board.
    • Unplug the connector, then plug it back in a few times to scrape any oxidation off the pins.
    • Make sure it’s fully seated and the wires aren’t pinched or broken.
  • Check for liquid damage.
    • If you see dried soup, rust, or white crust on the board or around the sensor, that’s your problem.
    • Clean the area gently with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush, then let it dry completely before reassembly.
  • Quick sensor test with a multimeter.
    • Leave the sensor disconnected from the board.
    • Set your meter to measure resistance (Ω or kΩ).
    • Touch the probes to the two sensor pins.
    • You want a steady resistance value. If you get 0.0 Ω (dead short) or OL / open (infinite), the sensor is toast.
  • If the sensor is bad:
    • Order a replacement temperature sensor/thermistor harness that matches your exact model.
    • Swap it: unclip or unscrew the old sensor, route the new harness the same way, and plug it into the same board connector.
  • If the sensor tests OK but F3 stays:
    • Then the control board is misreading it.
    • Board replacement is possible, but the part cost plus time often gets close to the price of a new cooker.
  • Reassemble and retest.
    • Put the base back on, reinstall all screws.
    • Flip it upright, add 2 cups of water, and run a 5‑minute pressure cook test.
    • No F3? You’re back in business. Still F3? Call it: sensor wiring in the harness or the control board is done.

Note: opening the base usually voids any warranty. Only do this if you’re already out of warranty and comfortable working on live-voltage appliances (while unplugged, obviously).

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Unit is under ~4–5 years old, otherwise clean and solid, and you’re just buying a sensor or inner pot (usually cheaper than a new cooker).
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Mid‑priced model out of warranty where you’d have to pay a shop to diagnose/repair; if the estimate is more than ~50% of a new Instant Pot, think hard.
  • ❌ Replace: Cracked housing, burned control board, heavy liquid damage, or any repair quote that’s close to the full price of a brand‑new pressure cooker.

Parts You Might Need

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

See also

Dealing with other appliance error codes around the house? These guides can help: