Instant Pot Pressure Cooker F4 Error Code Fix

by

What This Error Means

F4 means internal temperature sensor fault.

The cooker is getting an impossible reading from the sensor under the inner pot, so it shuts down instead of heating and risking a fire or meltdown.

Usually it’s one of three things: moisture or gunk on the sensor, a warped/wrong inner pot messing with contact, or a failing sensor/control board.

Official Fix

Here’s the straight “by-the-manual” play for an F4 fault:

  • Unplug the pressure cooker from the wall. No button presses, just pull the plug.
  • Let it cool for at least 30 minutes. The sensor has to be at room temp for a fair test.
  • Pull out the stainless inner pot. Look at the bottom of the pot and the hot plate / little metal “button” in the base.
  • Wipe both surfaces completely dry. Any water, oil, or starchy film on that area can throw off the reading.
  • Scrub off any burnt-on food or dark ring from the bottom of the inner pot. If the bottom is badly discolored, that’s a problem.
  • Check that you’re using the correct factory-size inner pot, not a random aftermarket one. Warped or domed bottoms mess with sensor contact and trigger F4.
  • Look inside the housing for junk: rice, beans, foil, paper, anything sitting on the heater plate or around the center sensor. Remove it carefully.
  • Re-seat the cleaned inner pot. Spin it a little so it sits flat and makes full contact with the plate.
  • Plug the cooker back in and run a simple water test: at least 2 cups of water, set to “Pressure Cook/Manual” for 5 minutes.
  • If F4 comes back during or right after this test, the official line is: stop using the cooker and contact the manufacturer or a service center. They’ll talk sensor or control board replacement.

On paper, F4 = safety fault. No more “just one more use” according to the manual.

The Technician’s Trick

What techs actually do before ordering parts: we assume moisture and bad contact first, dead electronics second.

  • Unplug it. Inner pot out, lid off, everything out of the shell.
  • If you’ve ever had a boil-over, overflow, or washed the cooker too aggressively, assume water or starch dripped into the base. That alone can pop F4.
  • Turn the cooker upside down or at a steep angle over a towel. Gently shake; if you see any drips, you just found your problem.
  • Grab a hair dryer, set it to warm (not max heat), and blow air into the bottom vents and around the sensor area for 10–15 minutes. Keep it moving so you don’t melt plastic.
  • Leave the cooker upside down or tilted and open to the air for at least 2–3 hours. Overnight is even better. You’re baking out hidden moisture around the sensor and board.
  • While it’s drying, really inspect the inner pot bottom. Put it on a flat counter: if it rocks or you can slide a thin paper under the center, it’s warped. That alone can cause F4. Plan on a new pot.
  • Set the cooker upright again, reinstall the (good) inner pot, and plug it back in.
  • Run the 2-cup water test again on “Pressure Cook/Manual” for 5 minutes.
  • If it now runs clean with no F4, you had a moisture/contact issue and you’re back in business.
  • If F4 pops instantly or keeps coming back even after drying and with a good pot, that’s when I call it: bad temp sensor or failing main board.

One more inside trick: with the cooker idle and cool, press straight down on the empty inner pot center. If pushing on it tends to trigger or clear F4, the pot/base contact is sketchy – think warped pot or bent sensor plate, not just electronics.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Still under warranty, or a newer mid/high-end cooker; F4 showed up right after a spill or wash; drying it out and maybe swapping a cheap sensor makes sense.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Out-of-warranty unit that’s 3–5+ years old, quote involves both sensor and main board, and parts plus labor land near half the price of a new cooker.
  • ❌ Replace: Budget model, old and beat-up, warped inner pot, worn seal, maybe other issues too, and F4 won’t clear – don’t sink money into boards and sensors, just buy a new unit.

Parts You Might Need

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

See also

Chasing other appliance error codes around the house?