What This Error Means
F49 means a motor control / communication fault on your KitchenAid stand mixer.
The control board isn’t getting the right feedback from the motor or speed sensor, so it locks the mixer out to protect the electronics.
The control board isn’t getting the right feedback from the motor or speed sensor, so it locks the mixer out to protect the electronics.
Official Fix
What the manual (and customer support) basically want you to do:
- Hard reset it: Unplug the mixer from the wall for at least 1 minute, then plug it back in directly to a wall outlet. No extension cords, no power strips.
- Check the outlet: Test the same outlet with another appliance. If the outlet is weak, loose, or on a tripping GFCI, move the mixer to a clean, solid outlet.
- Remove any load: Take off the bowl and attachment. Don’t have dough, batter, or anything in the bowl when you test. Turn it on empty and see if F49 comes back.
- Look for overloading: If F49 showed up while kneading a very stiff dough or mixing heavy stuff on high, let the mixer sit powered off for 20–30 minutes to cool. Then try again on a low speed, empty.
- If F49 pops up immediately again: The official line is: stop using it and schedule service. They’ll check wiring between the user interface and motor control, then replace the motor control board and/or motor if needed.
In short: reset, remove load, verify power. If the code sticks, the official fix is a board/motor service job, not a user adjustment.
The Technician’s Trick
Here’s what a real tech does before throwing an expensive new board at it.
- Kill the power for real: Unplug the mixer. Not just off at the knob. Cord out of the wall. You’ll be inside live-voltage territory otherwise.
- Pop the rear cap / top cover:
– On many tilt-heads: remove the single screw in the rear metal cap, slide the cap off.
– On many bowl-lifts: a few screws along the top/rear. Keep screws in a cup so you don’t lose them. - Reseat every connector on the control board:
– You’ll see a small control board with white plastic plugs going to the motor, speed sensor, and power.
– One by one, unplug each connector and plug it back in firmly. Don’t yank the wires; grab the plastic housing.
– You’re hunting for a half-seated plug that vibrated loose and is making the board think the motor is dead. - Inspect for burns or corrosion:
– Look for brown/black scorch marks on the board, melted plastic at connectors, or green/white corrosion on pins.
– If you see obvious burning, that board is basically done. F49 will keep coming back until it’s replaced. - Check the speed sensor area:
– Near the motor you’ll usually find a small sensor aiming at a magnet or toothed wheel on the motor shaft.
– Make sure the sensor is snug in its bracket and the magnet/wheel hasn’t slipped back on the shaft.
– If the sensor is hanging loose or way off alignment, F49 is no surprise. Re-seat it so it points cleanly at the magnet/wheel. - Blow out dust and metal shavings:
– Use a can of air or a clean brush. Keep metal tools away from the board traces and components.
– Gunk bridging contacts can cause flaky signals that trigger F49 under load. - Reassemble and test light:
– Put the cover back on, plug into a known-good outlet.
– Power up with no bowl/attachment and run on speed 1–2 for 20–30 seconds.
– If F49 is gone on low speed empty, then try a normal (not brick-hard) mix and see if it holds. - If F49 returns fast under any load: the motor control board is usually the culprit; on older or heavily used units the motor may also be weak. At that point, it’s down to whether the parts cost makes sense.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Mid- to high-end KitchenAid (Artisan, Pro, Bowl-Lift) under ~10 years old, generally solid condition, and F49 started after a heavy mixing session. A new control board alone is usually cheaper than a new mixer.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Older mixer with intermittent F49, out of warranty, and a quote that puts board + labor around 40–60% of a new unit. Worth it only if you really like this exact model or do light DIY repair.
- ❌ Replace: Mixer is 12–15+ years old, gears are noisy or slipping, housing is cracked or rusty, and both the motor and control board look cooked. If the repair tab is near or above 60% of a new mixer, don’t sink the money in.
Parts You Might Need
- Motor Control Board (speed control board)
Find Motor Control Board on Amazon - Speed Sensor / Hall Sensor
Find Speed Sensor on Amazon - Replacement Motor Assembly (armature / field)
Find Motor Assembly on Amazon - Wiring Harness / Connector Kit
Find Wiring Harness on Amazon - Gearcase Grease Kit (if it’s been run hot and loud)
Find Grease Kit on Amazon - Replacement Rear Cover Screws (easy to lose or strip)
Find Screws on Amazon
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See also
Dealing with other appliance error codes around the house? These guides can help: